View Full Version : How to correctly build a tie rod end on a radius rod.
BuickinaBucket
08-16-2004, 11:45 AM
I am interested in fabbing a set of custom radius rods for my T modified project. The question i have is how do I correcly install a set of rod ends in the tubing. I want them done right, with the jamb nut and LH/RH threads so it can be adjusted without disassembly. I have never seen one of these disassembled, But I am assuming it must be fairly simple. Can anyone enlighten me?
--Jesse
traveling boot ho
08-16-2004, 01:14 PM
if you want,,,
i could find a tie rod end that was replaced at work,,,,
the old one,,,
and mail it to you,,,
it might help for reference,,,
love
miss ho
BuickinaBucket
08-16-2004, 01:39 PM
I appreciate the offer, but there's no need. I live about 10 blocks from one of the largest junkyards on the east coast. I'll just get one there.
Really what I guess i am asking is what has to be done to/installed into the blank tubing to create the female end of the connection. Is the tubing threaded? Is a fitting inserted? Etc.
SamIyam
08-16-2004, 01:47 PM
Lefthander Chassis sell tube that they call "tap tube". It is close to the correct diameter for tapping.
The tube is 7/8" o.d. and it is for 5/8" rod ends. I think they also sell 1" tube for 3/4" rod ends... but that's kind of too big, IMO.
After you buy whatever length you need... buy right and left handed taps. I bought mine at OSH.. but they also sell them through Speedway.
On the side of some taps, it will tell you what size drill to use. My chart says 37/64 for a 5/8" 18 thread... but I used a 9/16 drill and just ran it down the tap tube.
Buy some Rapid Tap tapping oil... the shit works KILLER... and if you can find an old machinist who has some of the old Rapid Tap... I hear that stuff works even better.
Next, determine what length the tube has to be... measure TWICE and cut once...
Square the end up on a belt sander, or if you're good, with a file... this is critical, because the jam nut needs to sit flat against this surface. A lathe is the best tool for this job, but it's got to be a big one to fit this size tube in it...
After you get the end squared, you drill it out to the correct size for the tap you are using. BE SURE TO HOLD THE DRILL BIT SQUARE!! Again, a lathe is the best tool for this job...
After that, lube up the tap with Rapid Tap, and get it started... SQUARE WITH THE END OF THE TUBE!! Yep, lathe...
Run the tap down 'till the threads dissapear... inch it in a little, rotate it back a few threads to break the chips up... keep it lubed... I'm getting excited... uh, sorry, you know how to do it...
Sam.
SamIyam
08-16-2004, 01:49 PM
Also... you can use this technique to build your own drag links and tie rods!
Sam.
slazzen
08-16-2004, 01:52 PM
there is a post on tubeing in the techomatic that maybe of help
JOECOOL
08-16-2004, 02:17 PM
I guess I'm really confused ,why do you need a left and right thread on a radius rod . I can understand a tie rod or locating rod but why would you ned one on a radius rod?
Winfab
08-16-2004, 02:30 PM
You'd need LH/RH in a 4 bar arrangement but not in a wishbone radius rod...they can all be RH. Tie rods and drag links should be LH/RH for adjustment without disassembly. I have the "tap tube" that Sam referred to. It's D.O.M. (drawn over mandrel) tube that has a wall thickness that's within about .001 - .003" of the perfect size for taping. 1" O.D. X .148" wall for 3/4" threads, and 7/8" O.D. .156" wall for 5/8" as I recall. I sell it too so just PM or e-mail (winter@ccilink.net) if I can help.
36-3window
08-16-2004, 02:38 PM
what winfab said on the left/right threads
a lathe is the best way to do it , at least to drill out the tubing and get the tap started straight.. you can also get the end square for the jam nut....if you don't have access to a lathe , send them to me
praisethelowered
08-16-2004, 03:14 PM
Why do you need left hand and right hand on a 4-link?
It seems like you would set it up right and be done. I've even seen them with all ends solid welded sleeves with rubber bushings.
Is there anything wrong with that if it is set up carefully?
SamIyam
08-16-2004, 04:27 PM
Nothing wrong at all... I guess I got caught up when he said "tie rod end" and I just figured that he would be making tie rods and drag links... I later went back and read that he was making hair pins... I make hair pins with all right hand thread ends. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Sam.
praisethelowered
08-16-2004, 04:33 PM
Thanks,
I'm in the info gathering stages of a suspension design so any contradictory information freaks me out.
andjust so I contribute something to this actual thread
you can also go here
www.aedmotorsport.com (http://www.aedmotorsport.com)
for tube thread adapters
carkiller
08-16-2004, 05:57 PM
For the vintage look I use old ford 35-48 steering cross link. Cut off the lenght I need from each end. cut the radius rod to wantd lenght, insert end off cross link the depth I want with clamping ring and tie rod and weld
BuickinaBucket
08-16-2004, 09:06 PM
Thanks for the responses. You're right about the LH threads on the radius rods. I was at work and not thinking clearly. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif The info is still relevant though, since I'd like to do the drag link and tie rod as well.
47lincsled
08-16-2004, 09:41 PM
I'm getting ready to pull the front axel from my 47 linc,I'm going to find a set of tie rod ends off a rack and weld them into the ends of the wishbones,I think that will be strong enough?
Chuck Fish
08-16-2004, 09:59 PM
You can get tierod tubing from Speedy Bill at Speedway
BELLM
08-16-2004, 11:14 PM
You can also get bungs to weld in, already threaded, from Speedway & others.
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