SBC valve cover gaskets: what's best???

[Slide]

Help! My valve covers are leaking... I've tried several new sets of gaskets, but no luck. Not ruling out the possibility that my v/c's might be warped, so I'm prolly gonna try a "spare" set of v/c's I have stashed away. And since I'm doing so, what's the best gaskets to get? Recommendations for sealer?

(Right now I'm runnin' some old CalCustom-style finned aluminum deals. I have a set of finned Vette v/c's that I was hoarding for a future project, but I'm thinking I should try them. I also have a set of the sheet metal ones that have the "Chevrolet" script embossed that I could try.

As always, thanks in advance for any help & advice.

[hotrodsnguns]

I use felpro, have always had great luck with them.

[Slag Kustom]

check them with a ruler along the gasget surface. run the thick gaskets with the steel strip in them and glue them to the valve cover with the black super weatherstrip addhesive.

[Slide]

[ QUOTE ]
check them with a ruler along the gasget surface.

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks! I was plannin' to do that.

I also saw (on Summit's site) some of the gaskets that had the metal in them, as you mentioned. Seems like that would go a long way toward keeping them from creeping away from the v/c flange?

Any thoughts on sheet metal vs. cast aluminum?

[Deuce Roadster]

[quote


I also saw (on Summit's site) some of the gaskets that had the metal in them, as you mentioned. Seems like that would go a long way toward keeping them from creeping away from the v/c flange?

Any thoughts on sheet metal vs. cast aluminum?

[/ QUOTE ]

I use the gaskets with the metal in between.......works great for me........and I have aluminum valve covers.

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[fab32]

Yea, use the thick ones if you think you might have a slight warp in the gasket surface. I think that the ones with the metal sandwich is thicker than standard but they won't compress as much (to compensate for warpage) as the thick ones w/o metal. As said, glue them to the covers first and let the gasket cement set up overnight. Then when you install them I use a very tin coating of lubriplate, similar grease, or a thin coat of oil on the gasket to head surface. This will allow the removal of the cover w/o ruining the gasket. Tighten them down slowly and firmly (if you can see the gasket distorting around the hold down bolts you've gone too far). You should now be able to remove and replace the covers many times w/o replacing the gasket.

Frank

[stan292]

Anybody know where (IF) you can still get the ones made of cork, instead of synthetic rubber?

Back in "the days" we all used cork gaskets - stuck them to the covers with 3M yellow adhesive (the waterpump sealer stuff). No sealer at all was needed on the head side (just keep the sealing edges on the head clean - a little oil didn't hurt). Never any problems and they lasted forever.

I recall trying the synthetic ones when they first came out. Thought they sucked then - and still do. They squirm everywhere, and get worse the more you try to tighten them.

Progress? Not in my opinion. Just cheaper to manufacture and take a bigger mark-up on.

[Deuce Roadster]

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Fel-Pro and Mr. Gasket BOTH sell them..........


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[Slide]

I got a set of cork ones from O'Reilly Auto Parts about a year ago. They were Fel-Pros. But don't go on what I say, mine leak!!! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

[JOECOOL]

The thick cork ones are what I use,glue them to the cover ,nothing on the head side ,I also use the big spreaders,or what ever they are called to get the pressure away from the bolt.

[Slide]

What's the best glue/sealant/adhesive to use?

[hudson_hawk]

the black gasket maker works the best, learned that on the HAMB

[Scotch]

With regard to cast alum. vs. stamped steel- Always go with the cast alum. Cast alum expands and contracts at the same rate as cast iron. Stamped steel is a whole different deal. Sheet alum valve covers are excellent too, but really pricey and not worth it unless you need a custom set made.

[Slag Kustom]

i like the 3M (black) super weather strip addhesive its the same as the yellow but looks better if you get any on the edge.

[AHotRod]

Slide and others:
What you need are Fel Pro "Perma-Dry" Molded Silicone-Rubber Valve Cover Gaskets. PermaDryPlus style gaskets
utilize precision edge-molded silicone rubber sealing beads
on a rigid carrier to resist high heat and high vacuum, and
to compensate for surface irregularities.
Built-in torque limiters prevent over-compression and
gasket splitting, while locating tabs and bolt Hole-Locks
reduce installation time and assure proper alignment.

Fel Pro part number VS12869T for part as described.

Fel Pro part number 1628 is the race version, which has
a stainless steel inner liner and crush stops.

[AHotRod]

FelPro also offers these gaskets in Oil Pan and water outlet
gaskets for problem-matic engines.

[Fat Hack]

I only use Mr Gasket Ultra Seal gaskets...they're cork gaskets with a thin layer of heat activated adhesive on both contact surfaces.

Once, after adjusting the valves on one of my 305s (engine warmed up), I set a new Ultra Seal gasket over the valve cover studs (I never use bolts if I can help it), then set the cast aluminim Holley valve cover on.

A few seconds later I went to lift the cover off to wipe it down, and it was already 'stuck' onto the head! Those gaskets live up to their name!

(The adhesive they use is strong and fast acting, but the covers will pop back off with a quick, firm palm hit, and I've even re-used them once or twice and gotten away with it.)

They make Ultra Seal valve cover gaskets for other engines, too...and I highly recommend 'em!

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[Flat Ernie]

I've done what most folks here have mentioned, but w/SBF (more evenly bolted down covers) - I use cork gaskets, gorilla snot them to the covers, grease the head side - reuseable. I've had a set on that I've reaused for 7 years! They're getting brittle, but still seal!

Don't overtighten! Most common mistake - especially w/SBC.

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[willowbilly3]

Fords have machined surfaces on the heads, chevys don't and that is why it is so hard to keep the oil in. Probably also why they eventually started just using silicon. I always wondered if a machine shop could mill off that cast gasket surface on the cheby to make a better seal surface.