av8
08-10-2004, 11:38 PM
In response to some recent requests for info on inspection, rebuilding, and servicing Ford steering (1937 to 1948 passenger car and 1937 to 1956 pickup) I've pulled the appropriate section out the booklet that Vern Tardel and I have been working on. The booklet includes steering ID and modifications along with the info shown here.
Plans are to have the booklet ready for sale in late September. It's the first in a series of booklets on old-Ford hot-rodding work covering such subjects as steering, brakes, electrical, transmission, driveline, suspension, etc.
So, here's the requested steering info . . .
_______________________________________________
Inspection, Rebuild, and Service
With so many good, affordable donor steering boxes in circulation, it's a relatively inexpensive task to assemble a first-rate box that's as good as new. If you're impatient you can buy all-new internals but they'll cost you several hundred dollars that could be better spent somewhere else on your hot rod.
Check the lower bearing race on the worm gear for galling. This is a fairly common condition and one that creates stiff spots in the rotation of the steering wheel. The remedy is a new worm gear that can be pressed onto your old shaft.
http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL64/2013751/4830291/62926460.jpg
Inspect the sector gear for galling, and pray that there isn't any, because here, too, replacement is the remedy and a new sector gear and pin will set you back $60-$70. An entire new sector assembly -- gear, pin, and shaft -- are a couple hundred bucks!
http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL64/2013751/4830291/62926471.jpg
Plan on parting with $30-$40 (as of this printing) for worm gear bearings, gaskets and shims, a sector shaft bushing, and a sector shaft seal to make the steering box as good as new once the modification work is finished.
http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL64/2013751/4830291/62926481.jpg
Before assembling the steering, clean the sector shaft to remove old seal material. Be gentle and don't scratch or abrade the seal area.
http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL64/2013751/4830291/62926489.jpg
Dress the front and top mounting surfaces on the box with a file to remove ridges or burrs that would prevent oil-tight sealing.
http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL64/2013751/4830291/62926498.jpg
Bearing end play is adjusted by shimming the lower race which protrudes slightly from the case. The end cap is installed to determine the size and number of gaskets needed.
http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL64/2013751/4830291/62926508.jpg
Adjustment is a cut-and-try process. Begin with three thick green gaskets between the end cover and the box. There should be a very slight drag on the steering shaft when it's turned. If there is no drag, remove one gasket and check again. If there is too much drag, add another gasket -- a thinner brown one. If you don't hit the right combination at first, be patient; you'll soon get it and then be ready to assemble the steering box.
http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL64/2013751/4830291/62926515.jpg
Assembly
The simple F-1 steering box almost assembles itself. Just make sure it's properly lubed and correctly adjusted.
Apply a generous coat of moly grease to the bearings, worm gear, and sector gear and upper part of the shaft. Oil the lower part of the sector shaft and install it in the case with the gear centered.
http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL64/2013751/4830291/62926519.jpg
Grease the lash adjuster and install it in the top of the sector body with the adjuster screw toward the front of the box. If it's reversed, the cover won't fit on the box.
http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL64/2013751/4830291/62926529.jpg
Apply a thin, even coat of Permatex to the mounting surface on the box, thread the cover onto the adjuster screw, and draw the cover down by turning the adjuster counter-clockwise.
http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL64/2013751/4830291/62926545.jpg
Adjust the lash until the steering turns smoothly, with no play, throughout the full movement from lock to lock and back. Then, install the star lock on the adjuster screw and screw on the locknut to hold the star lock in place.
http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL64/2013751/4830291/62926555.jpg
After the mast jacket has been added, install a new rubber bushing into the upper end to support the top of the steering shaft. Use only silicone lube on the bushing; grease will harden it and cause it to squeak.
http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL64/2013751/4830291/62926565.jpg
Plans are to have the booklet ready for sale in late September. It's the first in a series of booklets on old-Ford hot-rodding work covering such subjects as steering, brakes, electrical, transmission, driveline, suspension, etc.
So, here's the requested steering info . . .
_______________________________________________
Inspection, Rebuild, and Service
With so many good, affordable donor steering boxes in circulation, it's a relatively inexpensive task to assemble a first-rate box that's as good as new. If you're impatient you can buy all-new internals but they'll cost you several hundred dollars that could be better spent somewhere else on your hot rod.
Check the lower bearing race on the worm gear for galling. This is a fairly common condition and one that creates stiff spots in the rotation of the steering wheel. The remedy is a new worm gear that can be pressed onto your old shaft.
http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL64/2013751/4830291/62926460.jpg
Inspect the sector gear for galling, and pray that there isn't any, because here, too, replacement is the remedy and a new sector gear and pin will set you back $60-$70. An entire new sector assembly -- gear, pin, and shaft -- are a couple hundred bucks!
http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL64/2013751/4830291/62926471.jpg
Plan on parting with $30-$40 (as of this printing) for worm gear bearings, gaskets and shims, a sector shaft bushing, and a sector shaft seal to make the steering box as good as new once the modification work is finished.
http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL64/2013751/4830291/62926481.jpg
Before assembling the steering, clean the sector shaft to remove old seal material. Be gentle and don't scratch or abrade the seal area.
http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL64/2013751/4830291/62926489.jpg
Dress the front and top mounting surfaces on the box with a file to remove ridges or burrs that would prevent oil-tight sealing.
http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL64/2013751/4830291/62926498.jpg
Bearing end play is adjusted by shimming the lower race which protrudes slightly from the case. The end cap is installed to determine the size and number of gaskets needed.
http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL64/2013751/4830291/62926508.jpg
Adjustment is a cut-and-try process. Begin with three thick green gaskets between the end cover and the box. There should be a very slight drag on the steering shaft when it's turned. If there is no drag, remove one gasket and check again. If there is too much drag, add another gasket -- a thinner brown one. If you don't hit the right combination at first, be patient; you'll soon get it and then be ready to assemble the steering box.
http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL64/2013751/4830291/62926515.jpg
Assembly
The simple F-1 steering box almost assembles itself. Just make sure it's properly lubed and correctly adjusted.
Apply a generous coat of moly grease to the bearings, worm gear, and sector gear and upper part of the shaft. Oil the lower part of the sector shaft and install it in the case with the gear centered.
http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL64/2013751/4830291/62926519.jpg
Grease the lash adjuster and install it in the top of the sector body with the adjuster screw toward the front of the box. If it's reversed, the cover won't fit on the box.
http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL64/2013751/4830291/62926529.jpg
Apply a thin, even coat of Permatex to the mounting surface on the box, thread the cover onto the adjuster screw, and draw the cover down by turning the adjuster counter-clockwise.
http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL64/2013751/4830291/62926545.jpg
Adjust the lash until the steering turns smoothly, with no play, throughout the full movement from lock to lock and back. Then, install the star lock on the adjuster screw and screw on the locknut to hold the star lock in place.
http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL64/2013751/4830291/62926555.jpg
After the mast jacket has been added, install a new rubber bushing into the upper end to support the top of the steering shaft. Use only silicone lube on the bushing; grease will harden it and cause it to squeak.
http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL64/2013751/4830291/62926565.jpg