View Full Version : THREAD-concoctions for loosening up seized engines ? let's hear your recipe


the SCROUNGER
03-29-2008, 07:33 PM
my approach to seized engines that sat in junkyards for 30 years, has always been brute force oriented- remove heads, oil pan, as many pistons/rods as would come out, then grit blast rust above piston, lube, and try to pound out piston- if it didn't come out, then drill a number of large holes in piston top, so piston would collapse when I hit it with 6 foot long pipe and sledgehammer. In short, I didn't soak engines in any fluids and wait it out. The one time I tried that, with WD40 on an Olds 455, it took torch heat through soft plug holes on cylinders, to finally break it free anyway

well I just scored a 1967 Pontiac 400 GTO engine, and guess what, it's locked up- so I'm going to attempt the slow, patient approach- and filled the crankcase and intake tract with a concoction of new diesel fuel, transmission fluid, and old gasoline

someone suggested PB Blaster but it costs $22/gallon, so I'll go the diesel fuel route for $4/gallon instead

anyone out there have a favorite formula that works ? let's hear it :D:cool:

Jim Beam
03-29-2008, 07:40 PM
An old man told me one time that Coca Cola works good. I havent tried it yet..

BOHICA
03-29-2008, 07:54 PM
FYI, WD 40 isn't the best for using as a penetrating oil.

panhead_pete
03-29-2008, 08:03 PM
Do a search, this has been covered comprehensivley in the past, including the last few days. The advanced search function is a cracker.

Rich Rogers
03-29-2008, 08:06 PM
An old man told me one time that Coca Cola works good. I havent tried it yet..
Coke will eat the hell outta rust. Years ago I took a glass of Coke and tossed in a rusted bolt and left it there, when I took it out the rust was gone and so were the threads on the bolt.Works great for cleaning off bugs on the windshield too but I don't know about a stuck motor. I'd use a good penetrating oil and let it sit and every once in a while when you're walking by it throw a breaker bar on the crank and give it a shot

fuzzface
03-29-2008, 08:17 PM
we used to use the coke trick years ago with the old formula coke and it worked great and was fast. I don't think the new coke works as good. Don't remember for sure but for some reason we switched to using marvel mystery oil now.

jimmyv
03-29-2008, 08:19 PM
Muratic acid, PB Blaster, Diesel have all worked for me. Usually I use a BFH and break any really stuck pistons into pieces since the block is going to need a bore anyhow.

hoarder1212
03-29-2008, 08:21 PM
I like your concoction but I would go light on the gasoline as it might thin out the other ingredients too much. The tranny fluid is probably the best.

J. Infante
03-29-2008, 08:39 PM
i use marvel mystery oil for most everything. if that doesnt work, vinegar then flush with alcohol (this followed by a very large hammer and plenty of heat). gotta watch with the vinegar--leave it too long and it starts eating through the metal. coke dont really work so well anymore, they changed their formula. used to work wonders on chrome. something interesting ive heard about doing is using air pressure to force oil down through the rings. pull the rockers so the valves are shut, then knock the cores out of the spark plugs and put a rubber hose on it. shoot plenty of oil into the cylinder then hook up the hose to an air tank and wait. was done on a rustball farmall engine and the thing ran afterward!

Speedwagen
03-29-2008, 08:46 PM
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=240322&highlight=stuck+stove+bolt

speedtool
03-29-2008, 10:48 PM
A diesel train mechanic told me that "Knock-er Loose" is the stuff to get.

54EARL
03-29-2008, 11:00 PM
Marvel mystery oil is the stuff.

dutchtreat
03-29-2008, 11:04 PM
I had a 300 Buick years ago that frooze up sitting for a long time. I had a couple of cases of damaged Transmission fluid cans (when they tried making the main body out of cardboard with tin tops) I drained the oil from the pan and filled the engine with transmission fluid. Pulled plugs and shot trans fluid in to top of all pistons. Then filled engine up with transmission fluid through the Carb so it filled the intake and worked its way down past the open intake valves.
I let the engine sit for a month and then would use a crossbar on the front balancer bolt and go right the left. I did this for a few weeks then pulled the plugs and put a breaker bar on the balancer bolt and she broke loose.
Next was the job of daining most of the transmission fluid left enough to show over full on the dipstick. When I pulled it apart it was the cleanes engine I ever took apart. I could have run a glaze breaker/hone in the bores to get a good crosshatch and done a rering and bearing on it and had a good motor. I parted it out though as 300 heads are Alum and sought after by 215 guys as are the cranks for making stroker 215's.

Mockie
03-29-2008, 11:08 PM
bought 50 chevy, stuck motor been sitting over 50 years in buddies gramp's garage (not lying). Tried coke and penetrant oil and worked for over a week with no luck. Then tried Marvel Mystery oil and broke loose in 2 days. Don't know if it was a mixture of all of em that worked but I think it was the Marvel, my 2 cents.

budd
03-30-2008, 12:00 AM
my trick is combustion chamber cleaner, you know the stuff you spray into the carb of a running engine to loosen carbon build up.

39cent
03-30-2008, 12:08 AM
I have tried 'coca cola' and it worked on a Ford steering wheel. Tried it on a stuck engine and then with all kinds of stuff finally got it unstuck by repeatedly rockin the crank back and forth, [for couple of days]. I think it depends a lot on how bad its stuck, and there are zillions of ways to do it!

lotus
03-30-2008, 12:08 AM
another vote for marvel mystery oil

39cent
03-30-2008, 12:17 AM
my best advice on rusted stuff is repeadly putting pressure back and forth with some force, but not to much, so it exercises the rusted parts, gets whatever you are using into the rusted areas. and heat works too.

Johnny1290
03-30-2008, 12:26 AM
I'll check in, ATF fluid and marvel mystery oil worked OK for me.

Copied from the garage journal
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16460&showall=1

February 2, 2008
Machinist's Workshop V20 number 2, April/May 2007, page 35

Article: “Testing Penetrating oils”
This reports a test of penetrating oils where they measured
the force required to loosen rusty test devices. The
details reported here were validated by the original
article author. He also added some details on the methods.
You must buy the issue if you want to see how they did the
test. The back issue is available for purchase.
The table below extracts the results table The lower the
number of pounds the better. Interesting that a simple mix
of acetone and power steering fluid (PSF) works the best!


Penetrating oil - Average load -Price per fluid ounce
None ...............516 pounds -- 0
WD-40 ..............238 pounds --$0.25
PB Blaster..........214 pounds --$0.35
Liquid Wrench ......127 pounds --$0.21
Kano Kroil .........106 pounds --$0.75
PSF-Acetone mix ....53 pounds ---$0.10 (50/50 mix)

Note from original article author:
1) These are loads required to free the test piece after
8 hours of immersion in penetrating oil. This is
probably not representative of a quick squirt just
before a wrench is applied.
2) The original article states ATF was used in the DIY
mix. It was actually PSF.

strombergs97
03-30-2008, 12:26 AM
First, I woud try to vibrate (shock) the engine..take a big hammer and strick the engine on all solid steel surfaces..What this does is, most times puts small cracks in the stuck areas. When you put in your penetrent it will wick in the cracks..
The best formula is patients..
5 cents
Duane.

budd
03-30-2008, 12:34 AM
i also ment to add that the first thing i check on a stuck engine is for rust in the cylinders, i have a small snake light that fits through the plug holes, if i see rust i dont even try to roll the engine. no rust and then i spray lots of combustion chamber cleaner in the plug holes, works in a couple for hours.

adjustablejohnsons
03-30-2008, 03:41 AM
With flathead Fords the following is often the case................................

You can pour the best shit in the world into your cylinders and it won't do any good because it's the lifters and/or valve stems that are stuck.

the SCROUNGER
03-30-2008, 08:27 AM
I did a web search and came up with EVAPO-RUST, this stuff is water based and specifically designed to eat rust away. There's a few guys raving about how quick and easy it works, in ONE DAY.

The more I think about seized engines and what is the cause, the characteristic is this- the piston is aluminum, the bore is iron- there is a chemical reaction between the 2- I'm sure you've all had an iron bolt stick to an aluminum water pump or timing cover sometime- they weld themselves together.

The piston actually "grows" in the bore and puts an outward pressure on the cylinder wall when it corrodes- it welds itself into the cylinder wall- lubing will only work on a mildly seized engine- I've seen engines where there was 1/8" of rust all around piston, in that case, something must be used first to eat away the rust.

In the past I used a big industrial sandblaster with compressor that had a 6-cylinder engine on it, and blaster orifice that was huge- to bring cylinders to white metal appearance- rust all gone- then proceed.

Next one I do, I'm going to try the Evapo-Rust. It's also pricey at $21/gallon, but cheaper than running a sandblaster for sure.

I like that acetone/power steering fluid trick mentioned too.

FWIW, I poured a quart of trans fluid down carb barrels each side of intake, then filled with new diesel fuel (off road diesel is cheaper than over the road diesel, FWIW)- then poured about 1 gallon of old dirty gas in crankcase, added one quart trans fluid to crankcase, then poured the rest of the 5 gallon can of diesel into crankcase- still did not fill up crankcase, but I want to attack the seized pistons from both top combustion chamber and bottom crankcase side.

I have another engine a Dodge 325 poly (the one that had broken crank)- I'm going to try the Evapo Rust on. If that stuff gets this Dodge free, it will be the ticket. The 325 is mega power seized, rusted solid, and was sitting in a car with no intake manifold on it

I've tried muriatic acid on the Dodge 325- it does eat away the rust, but the acid fumes will kill you ! And the engine didn't come free anyway. My throat and chest were raw and sore from acid fumes. It would work if one had a huge vat of it and lowered the engine in with a chain hoist, but the acid is just too dangerous to work with at home, or in your back yard. The fumes that come off it are smelled and seen by the neighbors, a white mist rises off the vat or engine you pour the acid on. And the fumes burn your lungs ! The acid is just too hard to work with- and requires a respirator and rubber gloves.

the SCROUNGER
03-30-2008, 08:27 AM
Here is it guys, EVAPO-RUST available at an AUTO-ZONE, priced at $21/gallon

http://evaporust.com/




KNOCK-ER LOOSE looks like good stuff too, but $41 a gallon- holy cripes a little more and I can buy another engine core !

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4JB31

irondoctor
03-30-2008, 08:52 AM
Vinegar!
it does amazing things

Ramblur
03-30-2008, 10:41 AM
Hahaha.My brothers stovebolt in his 38 Chevy was stuck. No amount
of soaking was helping. Ended up with the head and pan off,crap
rusty bores AND rusty pistons(in 38 they were using tin coated
cast iron pistons). Soaked and pounded on pistons with a 2x4 some
more. Eventually got it to move with a crowbar on the flywheel,rocking it ever so little back and forth,farther each time till
it was making complete revolutions. Flushed and blew out most of the
junk coming loose in the cylinders. Bolted it all back together and
pull started it. Smoked something awful out the pipe and road draft
tube for about 10 minutes and then cleared up. Still running today
without smoke at all and never having removed a piston.
Think of it as a power hone...;)

jbradleyd
03-30-2008, 10:47 AM
I knocked one loose with a 50/50 mix of marvel mystery oil and atf

RacerRick
03-31-2008, 12:45 PM
I usuallyjust use diesel or ATF and patience.

My engien guy just got an entire drum of Evaporust, and that stuff rocks. He has been dipping entire rusty blocks in there and the next day they look like they were just cast.

He has a really siezed 509 casting 400 block we are going to try soon.

metalshapes
03-31-2008, 12:56 PM
Water.

I read that as a TECH Tip here on the HAMB a long time ago.

I havent tried it on Engines yet, but I have on other things.
Like rusted solid brakedrums, etc

I took the whole spindle, drum, backingplate assembly and but them in a large bucket under water for a week.

Came apart without having to hammer on it...

cooljerk
03-31-2008, 12:59 PM
my old man's "magic brew" was kerosene and brake fluid...worked like a charm

the SCROUNGER
04-01-2008, 06:10 AM
FWIW, I'm trying a few of these solutions in a glass in my kitchen, on a rusty nut and bolt.

Molasses solution 3 parts water to 1 part molasses works very slowly, not worth it IMHO.

Evapo-Rust works on surface rust really quickly- but not as well on deep, thick heavy rust. It seems to stall there.

VINEGAR actually works pretty good, overnight it flaked off a lot of rust that the molasses and evapo-rust didn't take off- but still not as good as muriatic acid.

I may very well end up going back to muriatic acid for heavily rusted cylinder bores, to get the heavy thick rust out- and open up top ring land area- then go to a penetrant/oil/diesel solution from there. It seems like muriatic acid is the only stuff with the horsepower to get that heavy rust out quickly. Muriatic will get ALL the rust out, but won't necessarily free up the engine. It also does a number on the piston tops, turning them to mush. The engine has to be dumped out, rinsed, then soaked in penetrant, after the acid- to loosen up the piston/ring/bore area. Next time I'm using a respirator though.

Gusaroo
04-01-2008, 06:53 AM
marvel mystery oil

nexxussian
04-01-2008, 07:03 AM
Marvel Mystery Oil, as it's generally cheaper than the good penetrants (Kroil & PB Blaster here). I leave the head on and pour it down the spark plug holes and onto the valvetrain trying to ensure that I get it on the tappets and into the rockers (if equipped). I fill the cylinders up and let it soak / bleed past the pistons. I have a 228 GMC that turns over now (turns slow on the starter, but turns now, still soaking) that was stuck when I got it.

f1lover
04-01-2008, 08:21 AM
Buy a couple of bottles of "The Works", toilet bowl cleaner. It costs about a buck a bottle. It practically dissolves rust on contact. It works like a penetrating oil on steroids. Gene

the SCROUNGER
04-02-2008, 06:34 AM
Buy a couple of bottles of "The Works", toilet bowl cleaner. It costs about a buck a bottle. It practically dissolves rust on contact. It works like a penetrating oil on steroids. Gene



wow, we're getting a lot of good ideas and info on this thread...this is what I'm looking for- there are products out there that cost $20/gallon to $40/gallon or more, designed for this purpose, but I'm looking for a low-cost alternative that is a consumer-based product, that will do the same job for less. "The Works" is available at any Dollar Central or Walmart store. Being it's made for use inside the home bathroom, it should not be so caustic that excessive hydrogen gas is created, like with the muriatic acid.

elsewhere on the net, someone mentioned just hot taking/boiling the pistons out of the block chemically- to remove the piston material, i.e. acid, lye, soda solution, etc. to get the engine free

the SCROUNGER
04-02-2008, 06:42 AM
WARNING- you may not want to pour "The Works" toilet cleaner down a fully assembled engine that has heads, spark plugs, carburetor on it- it may cause an explosion if the resulting gases are compressed enough.

best to use any caustic stuff with cylinder heads off, and outside in open area ! (i.e. acid, lye, drain cleaner, ammonia, etc.)- because it eats the aluminum pistons and emits hydrogen gases during the reaction

don't smoke or have open flame/spark around it- hydrogen is highly flammable- i.e. remember the Hindenburg, was filled with hydrogen to get it to float in air

http://www.aerospaceweb.org/question/investigations/hindenburg/hindenburg06.jpg

one thing about penetrating oil is, it's safer

watch this for demonstration of The Works mixed with aluminum foil pieces in a soda bottle:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EaoHoh4yU7A

73RR
04-02-2008, 10:40 AM
Assuming that you are not trying to salvage the pistons and that a bore job is obvious, then try a light acid solution like the stuff at the hardware store for cutting through calcium deposits. It usually a weak solution H2S04 or HCL and it will eat through the rust.

the SCROUNGER
04-02-2008, 05:18 PM
today I drove to Dollar Tree, and bought (2) 24 oz. bottles of The Works toilet bowl cleaner for $1 each plus tax.

Ho-lee SHEET- this stuff kicks ass ! It dissolved 2 small pieces of tin foil to nothing in less than 5 minutes. It also turned the test pieces, rusted nut and rusted bolt, to white metal in about 20 minutes, like a sandblasted finish. It did more in about 5 minutes than vinegar and molasses/water and evapo-rust did all together on those test pieces.

Evapo-rust works fine for light surface rust, but it doesn't have the horsepower to remove heavy scale and pits that are found in a junkyard engine that has been sitting for 30 years outside- and it won't eat into the aluminum piston corrosion that becomes part of the cylinder bore. Evapo-rust was actually a bad investment, because for the $9 spent on the Evapo-rust, I could have bought 9 bottles of The Works at Dollar Tree. Live and learn...

I read the label and active ingredient in The Works is 20% hydrogen chloride, i.e. hydrochloric acid.

Now the odd part- the muriatic acid I bought for $5/gallon from hardware store, is 36% hydrogen chloride, but The Works has a much more dramatic action and effect. This is strange because one would think, the higher acid content in the muriatic, would make it work faster. But the muriatic label does say "aqueous", if that makes any difference.

mild acid solutions- they simply take too long. The Works will get results in 1 or 2 days, rather than 1-2 weeks.

I also tried a drain cleaner crystal that creates a soda solution, that had little or no effect on the tin foil, but it did remove some rust chunks.

nothing works like The Works, though- the winner is, the Works.

RustyBolts
04-02-2008, 06:09 PM
Dump some automatic transmission fluid into the cylinders through the spark plug holes and let it sit for a few years. Worked for me! Went from being totally seized up to being able to turn it over by hand with a wrench. This was on a 4 banger that had been sitting in a barn since 1953.

Big J.D.
04-02-2008, 06:16 PM
Muratic acid, PB Blaster, Diesel have all worked for me. Usually I use a BFH and break any really stuck pistons into pieces since the block is going to need a bore anyhow.
PB Blaster is real good stuff. (I bought two cans today, as a matter of fact)

RustyBolts
04-02-2008, 06:19 PM
Using acid seems like a dangerous idea. The acid might eat a hole through the top of an aluminum piston. It eats rust, but it also slowly eats aluminum and steel too. The native oxide on aluminum resists corrosion for a while, but once you get some pinholes through it, the aluminum will start to fizz and pit and etch away.

Drain cleaner also sounds like a bad idea, because it has sodium hydroxide in it, and sodium hydroxide eats up aluminum pretty fast. They add little scraps of aluminum foil to Draino crystals because it makes the Draino fizz as it eats up the aluminum foil. I think it's pretty safe on steel though at least. The piston tops are what I'd be worried about. The fizzing bubbles that come off aluminum when sodium hydroxide is etching it are hydrogen I think (flammable).

I'm not saying these things don't work, but just remember that the engine might be useless if you etch it too much with acids or bases and eat holes right through the tops of the pistons or etch deep craters in the cylinder walls.

the SCROUNGER
04-03-2008, 06:35 AM
PB Blaster is real good stuff. (I bought two cans today, as a matter of fact)


PB Blaster is over-rated, I tried that on a 401 nailhead engine that had almost zero rust in the bores, the engine is still seized to this day. In tests PB Blaster did not do as well as Liquid Wrench, on breakaway torque required on rusted bolts. PB is all hype, IMHO.

the SCROUNGER
04-03-2008, 06:38 AM
Using acid seems like a dangerous idea. The acid might eat a hole through the top of an aluminum piston. It eats rust, but it also slowly eats aluminum and steel too. The native oxide on aluminum resists corrosion for a while, but once you get some pinholes through it, the aluminum will start to fizz and pit and etch away.

Drain cleaner also sounds like a bad idea, because it has sodium hydroxide in it, and sodium hydroxide eats up aluminum pretty fast. They add little scraps of aluminum foil to Draino crystals because it makes the Draino fizz as it eats up the aluminum foil. I think it's pretty safe on steel though at least. The piston tops are what I'd be worried about. The fizzing bubbles that come off aluminum when sodium hydroxide is etching it are hydrogen I think (flammable).

I'm not saying these things don't work, but just remember that the engine might be useless if you etch it too much with acids or bases and eat holes right through the tops of the pistons or etch deep craters in the cylinder walls.


acid dipping is a common procedure in antique engine restoration, for cast iron blocks, heads, cranks, blocks, rods. It's also used on old car bodies and frames.

the pistons are junk in an engine seized as badly as these, the corrosion from sides of bore has actually eaten into piston sides about 1/4" or more all around- dissolving the pistons is the whole purpose, to break them free from the bore

it won't eat into the cast iron enough to damage is, it will only eat up the rust.

the SCROUNGER
04-03-2008, 06:41 AM
Dump some automatic transmission fluid into the cylinders through the spark plug holes and let it sit for a few years. Worked for me! Went from being totally seized up to being able to turn it over by hand with a wrench. This was on a 4 banger that had been sitting in a barn since 1953.


the key words there are "years" and "sitting in a barn"

sitting outside in a car, for 50 years, with hood half off, and intake removed, this one Dodge engine I have is much worse seized

a picture starts to emerge from breaking loose a couple of these engines over the years- "recently seized" will respond to penetrating oil- but "ancient power seized" requires some nasty chemicals, or drilling out pistons and smashing them out

RustyBolts
04-03-2008, 03:39 PM
acid dipping is a common procedure in antique engine restoration, for cast iron blocks, heads, cranks, blocks, rods. It's also used on old car bodies and frames.

the pistons are junk in an engine seized as badly as these, the corrosion from sides of bore has actually eaten into piston sides about 1/4" or more all around- dissolving the pistons is the whole purpose, to break them free from the bore

it won't eat into the cast iron enough to damage is, it will only eat up the rust.

Yeah, I guess the muriatic acid they sell in stores is a whole lot less aggressive at etching away steel than the full strength "reagent grade" hydrochloric acid stuff we use at work. "Muriatic Acid" is an old term for hydrochloric acid. If you throw a bolt or something in the full strength hydrochloric acid, it fizzes up like crazy, and a few hours later there is nothing left. The Muriatic acid they sell in stores is probably that stuff watered down about 10 to 1.

Naval Jelly has phosphoric acid as the main ingredient. Phosphoric acid does a pretty good job of eating rust without attacking the steel too much.

"Evaporust" works pretty good, but it's pretty slow. It's good for dunking small parts with mostly surface rust. You have to keep the part submerged in it though -- sometimes for days or weeks. The good thing about Evaporust though is that it doesn't harm the metal or plastics. It's great for things like flimsy steel trim or parts with brass bushings.

the SCROUNGER
04-05-2008, 09:45 AM
I want to try some phosporic acid, because it's not as fumey and caustic- used it for bodywork in the old days, we'd sandblast an entire car to bare metal, then wipe it down with etching solution prior to priming, i.e. a water/phosphoric acid mix. The "etch" came in gallon containers, and had to be mixed with water. Now they sell 2-part etch primer with zinc in one jug, acid/thinner in another- mix 50/50 and spray on bare metal. The older paint supply shops still have gallons of that old hand etching solution in stock, I want to buy a gallon and soak some parts in it, just to see how it works for rust removal.

There's a catch 22 here, the weaker the solution is to protect the parent metal and make it easy to work with, the longer it takes to eat rust, and the less effective it is at eating heavy rust.

Evapo-rust does not have a long life, with heavily rusted parts. The $9 quart bottle I purchased, was actually a bad investment, compared to muriatic acid $5 for 1 gallon at the hardware store.

Topless Ford
04-05-2008, 10:20 AM
With the heads off.... get some Kroil and put an inch in each cyl if possible. Heat the pistons daily with a heavy duty heat gun, it may take a week or two but that stuff works! I got turned on to it while building a couple of old Mauser 98's into custom rifles. An action wrench wouldn't loosen the bbl from the action, hell they had been screwed down since 1909. Plugged the bbl, put a 1/4 inch of kroil in the reciever lug area and put heat to it every day for two weeks. Eventually the oil crept past the crush fit threads and bam, unscrewed like it was done yesterday. I used it to free up a 352 FE and a 400sbc.YMMV

carlos
04-05-2008, 06:55 PM
worked at ford motor company as a machine repairman And I can tell you this Kroil is killer it is the best stuff I have ever used but cant find it anywhere.comes in an orange can.I used Deep Creep on a 54 chevy took all the plugs out made a stub to fit in the front of the crank after soaking for a couple of days got it to move about 1/4 inch not long after that let it soak somemore once got it movin it finally freed up.still preaty tight so I had my buddie drag me up the road ran it through the gears with the plugs out .got back home hit with the starter she wizzed over .stuck plugs in it poured some gas in it wam that split manfold sounded good.Changed oil home free.Deep Creep is made for locked up motor cycle engines works good for me.

the SCROUNGER
04-08-2008, 06:20 PM
With the heads off.... get some Kroil and put an inch in each cyl if possible. Heat the pistons daily with a heavy duty heat gun, it may take a week or two but that stuff works! I got turned on to it while building a couple of old Mauser 98's into custom rifles. An action wrench wouldn't loosen the bbl from the action, hell they had been screwed down since 1909. Plugged the bbl, put a 1/4 inch of kroil in the reciever lug area and put heat to it every day for two weeks. Eventually the oil crept past the crush fit threads and bam, unscrewed like it was done yesterday. I used it to free up a 352 FE and a 400sbc.YMMV

thanks for continued answers guys, all will help- I have 9 engines sitting here now of various makes, from junkyard saviour crusade recently, only got 3 of them freed up so far, so I have some work to do yet- all are soaking in various different stuff on top of pistons- the Pontiac GTO 400 I have pickled from top to bottom with diesel fuel/oil/trans fluid

now that gun story is neat, and that last engine story you got loose/running, that's a good one. I saw someone get an old Chevy flathead six in a truck going that way, by dragging it with a chain

interesting sidenote- I have my own 100 yard rifle range cut through woods and shoot often, reload, etc.

I had a '43 Mauser K98 w/laminated stock and stamped trigger guard parts, late war model, in 8x57- barrel shot out, crown worn out from cleaning- could not even hit paper at 100 yards with it

sent it out to some guy in Arizona, he rebored/rerifled it (just like we do to engines)- took it out to .358 so now it's a wildcat .358 x 57 damn thing is a tack driver now- put a new Cabelas synthetic black stock on it, sold all the old military parts except the action and trigger guard, nearly recovered the cost of gun in those parts- anyway wanted to save that original barrel with a rebore, there's like only THREE people in the country that still do rifle reboring, everyone else takes the easy way out and screws on a new barrel- but this one had the eagle standing on globe with nazi signs still stamped in it, so I didn't want to remove that barrel

old Mausers are like old engines, you don't throw them away, you rebuild 'em !:D

goodolboydws
10-02-2010, 09:52 PM
worked at ford motor company as a machine repairman And I can tell you this Kroil is killer it is the best stuff I have ever used but cant find it anywhere.comes in an orange can.I used Deep Creep on a 54 chevy took all the plugs out made a stub to fit in the front of the crank after soaking for a couple of days got it to move about 1/4 inch not long after that let it soak somemore once got it movin it finally freed up.still preaty tight so I had my buddie drag me up the road ran it through the gears with the plugs out .got back home hit with the starter she wizzed over .stuck plugs in it poured some gas in it wam that split manfold sounded good.Changed oil home free.Deep Creep is made for locked up motor cycle engines works good for me.

Try looking for KANO LABS in Tennessee-that's where it's made.