Tri-5 Str8 Axle Steering Tech for L B or anyone who gives a

[whitewallslick]

shit .... just finshed installing the disc brakes tonight, thought I'd bust out the digicam & take a few pics. For those who don't know my frontend setup, its an MAS 0" drop tube axle with parallel leaf suspension. 46' Merc spindles, budget disc brake kit consisting of bearing adapter sleeves, caliper mounting plates, '77 Monte 11" rotors, '77 Monte calipers, & Russell braided brake lines. Still need the master cylinder & front lines. Mounting the Hurst Line-Loc tomorrow. I've been running spindle mounts for so long, I've forgotten how fun burnouts can be. I'm gonna roast the f**k out of some tires with the Line-Loc!!!
Anyhow, the usual problem for tri-5 (or any car for that matter) straight axle installs is the steering. Here's my solution. The stock '57 steering link has been cut off, turned to the ID of the new tubing, pinned & welded, then the opposite end is tapped for a ford tie rod end. The big problem with this setup is the bumpsteer. The best solution is to bolt a steering arm to the passenger side spindle throught the upper backing plate holes & run the steering link there. I've mocked it up & the link easily clears the oil pan. Just a matter of finding or fabbing an arm that will clear the upper kingpin boss of the spindle. Quick sketch for the arm modification below. Any questions, let me know ... WWS

http://simoncomputerservice.com/pics/Wag/ax1.JPG
http://simoncomputerservice.com/pics/Wag/ax2.JPG
http://simoncomputerservice.com/pics/Wag/ax3.JPG
http://simoncomputerservice.com/pics/Wag/ax4.JPG
http://simoncomputerservice.com/pics/Wag/ax5.JPG
http://simoncomputerservice.com/pics/Wag/ax6.JPG
http://simoncomputerservice.com/pics/Wag/ax7.JPG
http://simoncomputerservice.com/pics/Wag/ax8.jpg
White is the stok steering link, red is the new tubing, green is the pin.
WWS

[Randy D]

I'll take the spindle mounts since you wont be needing them anymore. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif What rims are you gonna use?

[whitewallslick]

The spindlemounts are history. They live in Cleveland &
I made goooood money on them. Picked up a pair of '56 chevy 15x5 steelies, gonna run blackwall 560-15's as soon as I find some cheap tires. Have you had a chance to dig for some 37-up rear bones from your parts pile? WWS

[Irritant]

why don't you just give me that wagon before you screw it all up......heh heh!

[whitewallslick]

Youd just slap a tpi 305 & a baby seat in it, you old family man! WWS

[jay]

What is your axle length from king pin to king pin? I want to straight axle my Dodge does mas make the axles any length you want?

[Stovebolt]

Not meaning to tell you how to build you gasser - BUT....

Wouldn't it be a whole lot stronger and thereby safer if you changed the type of U-bolts that you are using to hold the axle in place?

The way you have it now, to me, looks as though you are relying solely on the welded mounting bracket to hold the axle in place.

If you were to change the type of U-bolt to a round one that goes round the axle, thru the mounting bracket and sandwiches the spring, much the same as you see on an F100 rear, you would have a better chance of keeping the axle from shearing from the mount.

Remember, every bump in the road you hit, will want to force the axle towards the rear of the car. Over time this will surely have an effect on the mounting bracket and the U-bolts. I'd hate to see the axle go the opposite way to the car if a bolt broke, or worse, the mount broke.

When you brake, the momentum of the car will try to twist the axle anti-clockwise. Again relying on the weld only to hold the axle in place may be asking for trouble.

If my logic is wrong - then tell me to STFU. I just can't sit back and not express my concerns. Besides I love the gasser look, and would hate to see it get a bad name if something did happen. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

[Hackerbilt]

I know where your coming from Stovebolt, but doing the full surround thing just might open a new can of worms!

Notice how the spring pad is designed...it has the mounting ears OUTSIDE the U-bolt area...not at the edge of the spring. Using a full U-bolt setup would cause excessive loading of this design and the result would be spring pad collapse...either during assembly or as its driven!

EG: The center area would bend downward causing the U-bolts to loosen and allow the axle to move or shear the center pin.

The pads DO look a little thin considering the possible forces...IF it were me I think I'd reinforce the setup by adding square tabs the same width as the springs, under the spring pads...one in front and one behind on either side and welded to the axle and the bottom of the pad. Road useage would be less likely to bend or fatigue the mounting pads then AND the required welding on the axle itself would be horizontal along the centerline, thus limiting the possibility of warpage.
(As long as the axle is welded while removed from vehicle to keep the weight off it...a good idea anyway so as to keep welding heat from the spring packs.)

It's probably OK as is...but I tend to add that extra little bit to stuff just for peace of mind....

I'm STILL alive, so I guess it works!!! Hahaha http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Bill

[Irritant]

[ QUOTE ]
Youd just slap a tpi 305 & a baby seat in it, you old family man! WWS

[/ QUOTE ]

hahahah! i already have my family car! it's a 63 galaxie 500 2 door sedan. and you have room to talk about being a family man, you family man! ha!