390 caddie header flanges??

[Preacher]

does anyone know where i can get a set of 390 caddie motor header flanges? thanks

[36-3window]

try headers by ed: http://www.headersbyed.com/

[Preacher]

thanks, i called him but he's getting $125 just for the flanges and i was hoping to get them a little cheaper.

[Cadillacin Marcus]

$125 is cheap!! i suggest you get the 3/8" thick flanges

[48_HEMI]

125 to much http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif I used to do them with an exhaust gasket a drill press and a die grinder. when your done the 125 will sound cheap http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif
A plasma cutter would cut your time by atleast 2/3 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[C9]

You don't need 3/8" thick flanges.
1/4" will do fine.

I've had commercially made headers with 1/4" flanges, bought commercial 1/4" flanges & built the headers and cut 1/4" one-piece flanges from cold-rolled & built headers and none of them leaked.

Gaskets used were Rocket motor steel embossed shim stock gaskets, aftermarket hot rod one piece gaskets as well as stock gaskets with the embossed pattern on what looks to be aluminum which is sandwiched with asbestos looking stuff.

In fact, the stock sandwiched ones are best.
The only reason one-piece gaskets were made were for the convenience factor.
(And they are a convenience in some cases, but even in tight places it's no big deal to use individual gaskets.)

You don't need one piece flanges either.
Individual flanges work fine and in my estimation they're better to use - as well as being easier to make - than the one piece flanges.
Any stresses on the flanges due to stresses in the header tubes proper will be relieved during the 20 minute cam break-in run.
The header primaries get to a dull orange which can be seen in a subdued light and that 'normalizes' the stresses in the tubing as well as allows the flanges to lie flat with no stresses.

After drilling the bolt holes a plasma cutter would be the way to go in cutting them out, but you can do it with a drill press, cold chisel, hammer and file if you're determined.

Here's a pic of an almost finished flange for a 455 Buick.

Note that it's cut out of 1/4" cold-rolled.
Way better stuff to use than hot-rolled.
Easier to work with and makes a better product in the end.

Price?
About $5.00 for the steel and several hours of easy work.

[porknbeaner]

C9
You just reminded me of a better way to do it. I haven't made a set of individual flanges in years. But if you don't get your headers exactly right they will flex a little and be more forgiving. I supppose that's the reason the Ol' Man always did 'em that way.
Just always thought that the one piece ones looked more...well performance I guess.
Thanks Bro
The PknBner

[Preacher]

thanks for the tips, i think i might plasma them out... $125 seems like a hard one to justify after reading your posts

thanks

[C9]

You're welcome porknbeaner.

I'm sure everyone will remember to re-torque the header bolts after the first thermal cycle.

I recommend strongly that you use a set of ARPs stainless header bolts.
They're rated higher than grade eights and you can crank down on them pretty good.
Use red RTV hi-temp sealant for a thread locker on header bolts - it releases easily when required.
The red RTV recommended by the local speed shop that's run by a couple of really knowledgeable guys.