Bulletbroof banjo

[PAPASMURF]

I am in the parts collecting stage right now, and and am looking for a rear end I want a banjo but afraid it wont handle the 289 w/300+ hp. Is there any way to keep the outside look of the banjo but, buy a locking diff, bigger axles, etc.? and where can I get them or who can modify the other parts to fit for me. I'm in Nor-cal if that helps.

[Antibilly]

hahahhah Nads bitch...........thats some funny sheet mang!!! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

to add some help
Hot Rod Works is a good place to start.

[swazzie]

Oh HAYZOOS ! GOOD GOD MAN WHAT HAVE YOU DONE!!!!!!!! Nad's Beeotch ! rutroh raggie. I'm way outa here . good luck cholo . swaZZie

[Kevin Lee]

Come on man. This is a good question. Plus he's taking it better than you would.

Hot Rod Works is a good place to start. But that just covers axles, right? Is the dif. still stock and how much can it take?

[Petejoe]

Just thinking out loud here........
I am sure within the last 50 years of running the Banjo's someone has come up with a good combination but...
Would a 50's model truck rear have beefier gears and goodies to provide enough guts for a juicy small block?

[Hackerbilt]

I don't know anything about banjo rearends except what I've read but I think the big issue is the axles.

There are ways to use later 8 or 9 inch axles...not sure if a kit is available or if its all custom machining.
Basicly you need to disassemble the banjo and replace the stock axles and their built in side gears with custom side gears that fit later slip in axles.
The outer housing ends are then replaced with ends to match the later bearings AND their bearing retainers...without cutting off the original spring hangers!!!

Naturally, its a little more complicated than that sounded.

Bill

[296 V8]

I think the keyed axel is the weakest link.
If you come get that 289 you can look at the rears I have. 48 zephyr – 38 p/u – 40 pass.


Its ok to call me at work, the boss is in Tahoe for 30 days http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[Nads]

You could always cover it with that clear two part epoxy that you buy from a craft store. You know that stuff they put on cypress clocks and Elvis decoupage pictures. I bet it would affect the sound and make it heavier to play though.

Just lidding dude, don't get sore on me.

[cheap-n-dirty]

The problem is with the pinion gear and the way it pushes the ring gear to the side under load. The lakes racers used to put a bolt on the back side of the ring gear to stop the movement.
Agood place to check for stronger rear end part for banjo's would be the sprint car and migit racers.

[PAPASMURF]

296- I'll be over after work tonight for sure I dont have to work at my other job tonight and tomorow, score!! so for two days I will have 8 hour work days instead if the usual 14hr work days.

[PAPASMURF]

Hey nad, can't you have more fun with that shit under my name? Damb I think it's funnier than you do and I think it was intended to embarass me more. Glad to see were not at each others throat anymore brotha.

[Bruce Lancaster]

Banjo stuff: R&P are about 8", are pretty strong if not worn AND if setup properly in terms of lash, play, and good bearing condition. Good setup instructions are available online and in Ford books. Setup is extra important on '28-32 without straddle mount. Slop allows gear teeth to try to climb over each other, resulting in disgusting puddle on street...
This stuff won't survive violent use with high torque engines, but should work for small engines and normal spirited driving. A 300 HP 289 might well be OK--a 300HP 350 no. Clutch popping at 6,000nonono.
Axles: Traditional swaps, in probable order of strength, and all accomplished about the same way: Merc 1949, Lincoln 1949, Ford 9". Article on how-to are out there on all, the 9" swap is done commercially.
Original axles: weak area is the keyway/hub interface. First, inspect for groove worn by seal just inside axle housing, or worse a BIG groove from being run with bearings so worn axle could contact housing. Then, look over keyway for damage from being run loose and for galling. pitting, grooving from loose fit. Traditional cure of discarding is getting to be harder--I don't see why keyways couldn't be recut either larger or elswhere, axle skimmed in a lathe. If cut is significant, skim brake flange on housing to move brake in a tad. Welding repair is possible--keyway is fitted with a CARBON key, edge of keyway welded to fill damage, and then carbon key removed, axle end cut in lathe.
On a good axle end, a traditional rite is to lap hub and axle together with fine Clover (Industrial supply places have finer grits than the usual valve seat Clover) for a perfect fit. Torque on nut is very high, I think around 200, way higher than what you would likely do by feel. I'll try to research the correct number for that. Tightened to this level, the thing practically fuses together--disassembly requires a GOOD puller and is downright scary.
Dragsters used these well into the sixties, deriving some extra stiffness from shortened axles. High rollers with Halibrands often had special full-floter axles and hubs.

[FoMoCo_MoFo]

I have a 327 with a banjo and have had to rebuild it once in the year the car was together... it did what bruce said, left a puddle, hey at least one of the axles did fly out at 60 MPH... they look good, but if you are going to be hard on it, get another kind..

[PAPASMURF]

I think i will have to loose the look of the banjo cause it wont hold up to the motor. Got a scat stroker crank off ebay and some kb pistons. All i need are my victor jr heads and some rods and i can slap her together.

1 347 stroker + 1 banjo rear end = broken down rod, lookin like a dork. I will have to go with the 9 inch, my buddys got one in his garage anyways from a drag car he will let me have for cheap.

[Ted H]

The 3/4 ton rearends from late 40's pickups are much stronger and have full floating axles. Dutchman's in Portland have done several of these rearends for the local track T guys. Dutchman's has a web site but I do't know what it is
Ted

[cornfieldrodder]

Aluminum, non-quickchange centers show up on Ebay often. They are often Winters units, using 3/4 ton axel bell pattern. Two short sides are needed as the dif is integeral with the long bell. They use any dif that is available for the large QC units. That set up will handle a whole bunch of power. I know of a Witers rear in a Vette that made around 700 hp and never broke. Quite a few other parts gave up, but not the rear http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif