Lets talk about plug wires.

[TINGLER]

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[SwitchBlade327]

I just put a set of those accel wires on my car about a month or so ago when I did a half-ass tune up. They seem to work alot better than the old "stock" wires did, but ever since i changed em my radio has acted all screwy....whats up with that?

[jdubbya]

I bought a set of Accel, universal fit 8mm. I bought them knowing that I had used them before, without a problem, and these have been great. I am running a SBC with a single points distributor. I picked this set up at the local Advance Auto for around $30.00. -Joe

[JOECOOL]

I use the Accell yellow jobs ,I'm not sure what they call them,about $29 at Jegs,they work great but my wife has a pacemaker and she acts real screwey when I start it up.

[Fat Hack]

I always used Moroso "Blue Max" wires...don't even know if they still MAKE those!

They worked great, and were available pre-fit in most popular applications...at one time, anyway. Used them on probably eight or nine different cars...Fords, Chevys, Mopars...and one AMC! Good wires, never a problem!

[SwitchBlade327]

you can get the accel's in a bunch of colors, that's basically why i got them. I didn't really need fancy wires, I just wanted to put a blue cap and wires to match the car, heh.....I've never seen a single person return a set of these wires in the 4-5 months I've been at the parts store...

[fishtank]

I've used the accel wires alot and have never had any problems with them. To avoid radio interference you want to get the right type: spiral or solid. I think it's spiral, but I'm not positive.

[fishtank]

As I understand it, it has to do with the insulation inside the wire. I do not know if one is better than the other.

[BoomBoom]

VT, For what it worth, I was using Accel on my shoebox and the wires that were close to the headers burnt through. I talked to a club member who has a FED and he said he only uses Taylor. Put a set on the shoebox, no more problems with burnt wires. Im runnin them on my 23T also. Seems to be a good choice for wires that are going to be close to headers.

[SwitchBlade327]

i think accel makes special boots for headers, they have header plugs too. Never paid them a whole lot of attention though, I'll check them out when I go into work later.

[BoomBoom]

VT, I got mine at a car show from a vender. They also have them in the PARR street rod parts catalog. My Dad also has them on his 32 pickup that has cast iron manifolds on it and still no problems with heat. I dont know bout radio interferance because none of the cars Ive talked about have radios. There might be one in the Dragster I mentioned. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

[burger]

VT -- After a LONG conversation with Dave of Dave's Small Body HEIs, I came up with the following short list of wires:

MSD
Taylor
BW Select

Dave recommends magnetic suppression spiral (sometimes marketed as magna) core wires.

He specifically said that the Pertronix wires were junk and to be avoided.

If I had it to do over again, I'd go for the BW (Borg Warner) wires as they're the most OEM looking of the group.

If you haven't purchased a coil yet, here's a little secret -- pick up a NAPA IC-12 coil. It's made on the same assembly line as the MSD 832, just without the chrome housing. Same coil, half the money.



Ed

[burger]

VT -- Summit sells Taylor wires.

[Flat Ernie]

Solid core wires are harder to come by & should really only be used with magnetos anyways. You can use them on a points setup as well, but they can wreak havoc on an electronic ignition as well as your radio, pacemaker (unlikely), etc.

Use a good quality spiral wound supression wire & the right plugs to go with them - hard to find non-resistor plugs these days anyways.

I like Taylor, MSD, Moroso Blue Max, & Mallory Pro Wire - I always buy universal wires & cut to fit - I don't like pre-fit wires - there's always one that's too long & one that's too short http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif but most end up being longer than you need which means they look sloppy.

VT - have you considered running your wires underneath the headers - it's a bitch to route them that way, but might give you a bit more room - also cleans up the engine compartment a bit.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[BoomBoom]

VT! Dude! 1/2 inch clearance! No Problemo! Mine were practically touching the headers on my shoebox. Ive got a 302 in the 23T that has roadster headers on it and there is plenty of room for the wires. If you go with the Taylors I dont think the plug "booties" http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif will be needed. Just my opinion. (OT- Will be sending monster shirts soon!)

[Flat Ernie]

[ QUOTE ]
I could see where going under the headers would be benificial in a different set up, but I think for my situation, it won't work.

[/ QUOTE ]

It was worth a shot! I've seen some run that way (usually SBC) that work well & clean up the engine compartment at the same time.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[andysdeuce]

VT, get the Taylor spiral wires. I run them on my sbc with block hugger headers...needed the room for steering. I use the accel short plugs and 90 degree boots. The boots are still pretty close to headers but seem to be holding up alright. The plugs will set you back about 2$ a plug but the extra space between boot and header is well worth the money. Any local speed shop should carry the wires and plugs. The Taylor wires come in different colors also.