touring frame going together, kinda slow, 3 link pics

[Tman]

Here is the frame

[Tman]

Good look at teh Pewter running gear and the "3-link"

[Tman]

Last shot, MC mount and teh fuel filter laying there. The filter is a cool $30 piece, donside is the Delco GF62C is a better filter as far as the plumbing goes http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif But this was chrome and less pricey, I Guinnie Pigged it for our customers, wont reccomend it over the GF62C, Chrome or not.

[Tman]

Hurst Cheaters

[Tman]

Last pic showed the flake, th ride ht is about a foot to high at the front! Here is sex anticipated betwen the body and the frame....................

[QQMOON]

Hey Tman Looking Good
JR

[burndup]

How do the outer two links attach to the axle?

Thanks,
J

[Harrison]

Awesome man, absolutely awesome! I love it.

Post some pics of your cowl steering when you get to that point.

JH

[continentaljohn]

She's looking killer!!! I love the tubs !!!

[stoggie]

This is looking good and I am sooo jealous!! And a I have dumbass questions - did you make this frame wider - more like a '32 chassis. It just looks wide in the top view. I know the stock one is only 2' wide and most of the T bucket frames are pretty narrow too. Sorry to keep asking question but everytime you post progress it makes me think about what I should do.
Thanks - Troy http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

[Tman]

Burdup, the outer bones have a heavy duty sleeve and P&J Bushings at the rear, they are mounted double shear between two "plates" that are welded to the rear end.

stoggie, the frame is cut and tapered out of2x5" tubing. it is like a 32 and is as wide as the body.

[Tman]

I should have explained the frame better but was in a hurry when I typed that last reply.

the frame is contoured to match the curve of the body. UYou can get this profile by outlining you body on the floor or on a piece of plywood.

To get the curve, you need to make cuts in the tubing. I used a carbide circular saw blade in an old circ. saw. It gives you a 1/8th" kerf that allows about a 2 degree "bend" in the rail.

You only cut through 3 sides of the tube at any given point. I have about 5 cuts INSIDE the frame rails under the main part of the body. The fram actually bend UPWARD at the cowl like a 32, it is done by cutting DOWN through 3 sides and leaving the bottom of the rail uncut. There is also a cut at the OUTSIDE of the cowl, otherwise your frame rails end up being about 9" apart at the front crossmember. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

The bending of the rails after cutting is easy, I used 2 6x6" blocks space 2-3 feet apart and layed the rail over them. Then I stepped on it http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif. Tacked in place until I had both sides mocked up and exactly the same shape.

Dats it!

[Fat Hack]

Oh my! Eeets gawt OLES en eet!!! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[Radshit]

I'm not a big fan of Ford Grabber Blue...... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif...but that combo with the pewter looks good.....great work Tman!

[Charlie Chops 1940]

Good progress, bet it feels great to be doing assembly after so long. Stick with it.

Charlie

[choprods]

Looks really GREAT Trent!You are miles ahead of my Roadster FIASCO!
LIKE THAT THREE BONES DEAL........
I put my bones on outside too front and rear.
I will post pics of my 31/ON32 chassis TOMORROW.....In the light of DAY.....
I sandblasted the chassis and then painted it in middle of the pile of sand in the driveway!
a bird shit on it between the primer and color coat! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[Tman]

ElPolacko deserves credit on helping me sus out the 3-bar rear suspension.

[Mart]

Tman, hard to see from the photo's, but what's the difference in height between the rear of the outer radius arms and the rear of the center one? It's this difference in height that will affect the loading in the arms when handling the torque.
Looking good, by the way, glad to see someone thinking outside the norm on rear suspension.
It will be interesting to hear how it hooks up, there is a theory that the odd arm is better placed to the right of the diff.
Interesting stuff.
Mart.

[roadstar]

I like it....No I love it. IT's cool....No it's Fuckin awesome!!! The frame totally kicks ass. The rearend setup is way cool. I really like the bars on the outside of the rails. Can't wait to see it done.

[Rocky]

Oh, HELL yeah! Hurry up and stick that mo-fo together so we can cruise it in the KCS&P thingee....
The torque arm is something I wanna test for you...no charge. I have experience testing this kind stuff.

[Tman]

Mart, the lower control arms are about 3" below the axle centerline. The Torque arm is on the same plane as the drive shaft. They all converge at about the same plane at front. The travel is good, the T spring nets around 2-3" of real travel. The Torquae arm keep the pinion from doing odd things as well. You can see this now when you load everything with the body off.

Rocky, trust me, we will "spin test" the whole works.

[stoggie]

Thanks for the follow up on the chassis description. I was kind of thinking that way but the explanation helped.
If you come through this way and let Rocky drive let him drive to my house. I REALLY want to see this live and in person.
Again very cool! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Troy

[Tman]

Mr KCsledz, here is that post you PM'd me about.

[KCsledz]

Mr KCsledz, here is that post you PM'd me about.


thanks! I have been looking or that.

[Tman]

thanks! I have been looking or that.

I guess I should add to this since the car now drives. For those that have been watching/wondering, my 3 link works like a dream. The ride is really nice. THe thing hooks up nasty fast and hard. I dont think I want real slicks on this thing, I would just break shit.

Things I might add? A torsion type anti-roll bar. The car is really low, the CG is low, it handles like a sports car but could be better with a bar.

I would make the kickup less, didnt need it as high.

Learning is cool, I know what I will do different on the Model A!

[Tman]

I guess I should add to this since the car now drives. For those that have been watching/wondering, my 3 link works like a dream. The ride is really nice. THe thing hooks up nasty fast and hard. I dont think I want real slicks on this thing, I would just break shit.

Things I might add? A torsion type anti-roll bar. The car is really low, the CG is low, it handles like a sports car but could be better with a bar.

I would make the kickup less, didnt need it as high.

Learning is cool, I know what I will do different on the Model A!

BTTT for striper

[Kevin Lee]

The Torque arm is on the same plane as the drive shaft.

Wait a minute...So when viewed from the side your torque arm is on the same plane as the driveshaft? I know you and Kenny have been flipping each other shit and I've been joining in here and there - it's all fun - but I don't see how anything that is parallel to and on the same plane as the driveshaft, and pivots at both ends could be doing anything to counteract torque. I just see it as another driveshaft that doesn't spin. All of the twisting forces are still free to be transferred to the radius rods. Right?

[striper]

Tman,
Thanks for bringing this one back up for me. I don't know if I will go exactly this way but I'm starting to get the picture about what I'm trying to achieve. I'll probably reinvent the wheel a little just to suit my application. The pics help a lot.

BTW how much did you step the rear of that chassis? You said it was a bit too much. I originally planned a big one (13") but revised my plans yesterday to 10".

Thanks again

Pete

[Mart]

Grim, the other bars are 3" below the axle, so there is some triangulation in the torque arm. Personally I'd feel happier if that arm was fixed near the top of the diff, increasing the triangulation. Fitting it on the right helps to cancel out the torque effect of the pinion rotation. It would load the right rear tyre more on a launch.
Tman, post some pics of the finished car please.
Mart.