Need SBC build tips....

[plmczy]

I can't believe I'm going to do this but I've decided to build the sbc that came with my dodge(insert ball bustin here)for the plain reason that I have the motor and they are extremely cheap to build. I'm not really familiar with chevy so I need some tips on building and getting the most usable torq without having a big cam and high compression. I also need something economical in the milage area. What 5-speed trans do I need to fit behind a 68-83 block? Thanks for the help, I sure apreciate it. later plmczy

[slammed]

Engine kit's galore in the Summit/Jeg's catalog's. Else where too. Cam for torque? Comp 4x4's look real good for idle-5000 RPM range. Dual plane intake, smaller carb 600 cfm max,K&N fiter. Tran's? IROC/Tran's Am '80-90's, a possible choice. Hotter ign. free-flow dual exhaust..use ram's horn's as the only stock manifold's. Header's? If some shortie's fit, try them. Electric fan to free up horsepower too.

[OldCarPilot]

Every thing said above. A really good street cam is comp cams xe262. Its not a very big cam, but is real nice down low and performs well upto about 6500rpm.
Also the air-gap intakes seem to rate really well every time they are used.
Invest in some roller rockers.
If you are going to get new heads the vortec are a good cheaper way to go, but there are better flowing heads out there. Vortec heads require some "vortec only" stuff too.
With 64cc heads and pistons with 4-relief valves you get around 9.4:1 compression. Good for mid grade gas, better on high grade.

[burger]

If you want to do some reading, pick up David Vizard's "How to Build Max Performance SBCs on a Budget".

Ed

[Fat Hack]

I'm assuming this is a 350?

If you're just after decent torque with an eye towards fuel economy, don't get into anything like aftermarket heads and such. Stick to the basics...

Disassemble the motor and assess it's condition. Does it have a sharp ridge? Are the cylinders scored? Will it need to be bored, or will it clean up with a hone? Are the crank journals okay, or will it need to be turned? Once you've evaluated the condition of the engine, you can make your shopping list and prepare to have any machine work done.

Obviously, if you need to bore the cylinders, new pistons will be in order. Forged pistons are deffinately stronger, and a wise investment for performance useage, but cast ones will work fine for a cruiser and save you a few bucks. Your choice.

Best to buy a whole rebuild kit, one that includes the pistons (if required or desired!) in the oversize of your choice, new Michigan 77 bearings (oversized if the crank needs to be turned), gaskets, oil pump, timing set and piston rings.

There are several schools of thought on piston rings, but my personal preference leans towards good old ductile iron ones for a street motor. Cheap, reliable and time proven. They seat well with a good cross-hatch hone and last a good while.

As always, the key to longevity is proper assembly with due care taken to clean, measure and double check everything as you go. Buy a book relating to small block Chevy rebuilds and mind the torque specs and clearance guides as you go. If you run into ANY problem, stop and determine the cause, then fix it before going on.

To finish off the motor, I'm gonna recommend a stock 350/300hp replacement cam as a low dollar torque maker. Others will tell you that it's too tame, but I need only cite my first car...a heavy 69 Chevelle with a 350/300hp engine topped as I will describe below. The car had a TH-375 automatic, stock torque converter, and 2.73 gears. With that torquey 350, it could anhiliate one tire through two gears and it pulled 15.2 second quarter mile ETs. (You had to let off the gas to stop the tire from spinning once you got it going with a little footbrake action!)

In addition to the stock replacement 350/300HP cam, I'd recommend a set of 1.94 heads with a decent valve job and new Competition Cams Magnum roller tip rocker arms and nuts. Stock rocker arms aren't very precise...they are supposed to carry a 1.5 ratio, but they can range anywher from 1.47 to 1.54...on the same engine! The Magnum rockers sport a 1.52 ratio and the roller tip offers reduced friction and "free" horsepower. A very wise investment.

The best intake I've found for a mild small block Chevy is the old factory aluminum 1967 Z28 dual plane manifold. That's what I had on my Chevelle, but they can be pricey these days. Holley makes a near copy of it, and the Edelbrock Performer or Performer RPM make a great alternative as well. Top it with a 750cfm Holley vacuum secondaries with the plain secondary spring, and the green accelerator pump cam for maximum performance...or go with a Holley 600 vacuum secondaries out of the box for emphasis on mileage.

A stock distributor, either a Delco single point or an HEI is all you need. A curve kit helps, but isn't mandatory for an engine this mild. Include quality tune up parts, a performance coil and good wires and you'll have a rock solid and reliable ignition system that you won't need to worry about.

Add a set of headers and a set of duals and you're ready to go! This combo won't wow the masses or put you into the nines or anything...but it will give you an excellent return on your investment in the form of a steady, consistent performer for many years to come!

[Fat Hack]

Oh...I forgot...you asked about trannys. Any Chevy pattern automatic or manual will work...with the garden variety TH-350 being the cheapest and most common. I'd recommend just a rebuilt TH-350 with a shift kit. If you want, a MILD converter, such as the Saturday Night Special will get you off the line better without eating into your freeway fuel mileage, so that may be a viable choice if you need a converter anyway.

The overdrive autos are decent, too...but to keep this simple, cheap and bulletproof for ya, I'd strongly favor the good ol' TH-350 for this deal!

[sawzall]

[ QUOTE ]
I can't believe I'm going to do this but ..

[/ QUOTE ]

Hell I cant believe you were ever thinking of doing anything else... especially on a car where the hood shuts and hides the motor..

I dont know much about building a sbc but do yourself a favor and sit down with a calculator and figure out the cost of rebuild and MACHINE work before you do anything.. I agree sbc's are among the cheapest to build... BUT believe it or not when I figured out the cost of machining my old motor and buying all new parts the crate motor in my 40 was alot cheaper than rebuilding the old one...

just food for thought...

sawzall

[plmczy]

This is a 350 I believe, I looked up the casting number and it was either a dz302 block(which it isn't because it's a 2 bolt main block),a 327 truck or industrial block 2 or 4 main, or a 68-83 350 2 or 4 bolt main. The fellow I got the car from said that it was a 71 350 that came out of a vette,but don't they all say that http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif. I don't think it's from a vette due to the fact that I was always told that all vette motors are 4 bolt main blocks. I have a 700r4 that came with the motor but 3rd gear is out of it, so I was told by the seller. I really want to go with a manual 'cause I miss it. The car came with full lenth headers that he installed to test fit the motor in the car. I'll know if I can use these once I get the car in the garage to work on it. I'm just mainly looking for something that will be easy to tune and I wont need a bank to fund my gas bill. I did that with my roadrunner and I'm still having a hard time trying to get the car running properly, it's been about 5 years know. I'm doing this on a very tight budget($30 a week, 20 of it goes to gas to get back and forth to work)and I'd like to do most of the assembly as possible. The 383 in my RR was built by someone because of the fact he was used to working with higher lift cams and such. Thanks for the help and any other suggestions. later plmczy

[Offy]

Dammit man, 10 bucks a week won't keep air in your bicycle tires much less maintain a motor vehicle.Seek out more gainful employment or yer headin' for a life of crime! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

[Tudor]

what sawzall said is TRUE

the cheapest way to guy is get a 150 basic fresh up kit - take everything apart, clean, rering, rebearing, and put it all back with new gaskets.

If you are looking for a total rebuild for basic performance - you can strip your motor down to the heads and block for core and go to autozone and get a $750 long block 350 replacement, that'll come with new heads installed. Order up a good cam for 100 bucks, slide it in and you'll be cookin with grease for less that rebuilding your existing if you want to go through all the machine work.

get a price from these guyts too http://www.automotiveenginewarehouse.com/

They have some great prices on remanufactured chevys - He worked me up a price for an assembled 350 long block that was 10:1 with some nice stuff in it for 800 bucks. I was dumb and tried to rebuild mine for less and I over shot that bigtime. He also had a remanufactured one for as low as 400 bucks.

You'll still need a new water and oil pump - gaskets etc and put it back together.

Summit has real good prices on their own brand bolts, cams, pumps, etc.

I just rebuilt my 283. The trip to the machine shop just cost me 800 - for new heads, pistons, bore to 40 over, cam bearings, plugs, hot tank, install pistons on rods, deck. Then I still had to buy head gaskets, misc. bolts, timing chain gaskets, cam, lifters, oil pan, oil pump, pick up, water pump, paint, and include assembly time (which I enjoy - so I can't count that).

So I think you can do better getting an assembled long block if you are not real interested in the performance.

[plmczy]

Sawzall, I'll keep that in mind, good advice. I'm a keep everything brand built. Just about everything built out there has a chevy motor in them and it gets boring after a while, but I realized that if I want this done in a short time I need to compromise http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif.

Offy, I have a pretty decent job blue coller wise at least I think, it's just we bought a bigger house and I have cc bill thats up there and 2 kids and such. I'm also trying to buy shop tools besides that, so I can start building my car.
Tudor, the motor has already been pulled apart, pistons out, but they put the crank back in, oil pan on , heads and intake have a couple bolts holding them on to mock up the motor. I figured I would just rebuild with new gaskets, put in mild cam, rering,new bearings, and oil pump depending on how the block looks. I figured I'd look at the swap meets for used aluminum intake, maybe roller rockers that someone didn't use or upgraded to something better. Thanks, later plmczy

[46mopar]

Ok I going to be the bad guy and ask the question.Are you sure you want to keep the chevy motor? I understand you are on a buget but knowing what a mopar fan you are do you really want the chevy motor. Put all the chevy parts put them up for sale and find a small block mopar. Your at the point in your build where you can make this change and it won't be regreted later.Just something to think about.

[plmczy]

46, I'm keeping it for now just so I can get the car running and I can drive it. Deep down I really want a hemi in some twisted way,lol. I figured while I'm driving and enjoying it I can gather the parts for what I really want. I know it sounds screwed up but I figured that would be the easiest way for now. later plmczy