hydraulic or manual clutch? what do you use?

[41ChevyTrucker]

Trying to figure out what to do with my clutch pedal in my truck. Space is going to be tight in my cab and with the frame Z moving the trans up I am not sure how a manual pedal would work. What have others done? Any pics?

If I do go hydraulic should I use a slave cylinder or a hydraulic throwout?

[Scotch]

I've run a few of each, and honestly I like the hydros better. Pedal feel is smoother, and certainly quieter. You can mount the remote reservoir anywhere it'll work, and pedal issues are lessened. The only "issue" may be in the bleeding, which can be a pain in the ass, but tapping on the pedal with my foot always helps shake the bubbles out. McLeod in SoCal has a bunch of new hydraulic clutch swap upgrade parts, so this ought to be easier than ever. I'm planning on swapping a hydro clutch from a late-model Z28 into my '67 Chevelle to make using a 6-speed T-56 easier.

Scotch!~

[Nads]

Hydraulic, everytime. Me not clever enough to figure out bell cranks and rod lengths etc. I just buy a slave and master from Speedway and fabricate the mounts. Make the mounts super strong and you'll be fine.
Not traditional, but unlesss you're crawling under the car you can't tell.

Scotch's points are well taken.

Best of luck to you.

[colorado51]

I have a hydraulic set-up on my 51 Chevy, as Scotch said, it is a pain in the ass to bleed, but once you got it, your done.

This is a pretty good combo:

http://www.wilwood.com/products/master_cylinders/combo/index.asp

http://www.wilwood.com/products/slave_cylinder/slave_cylinder.asp

Although, the slave cyl is a little long, so you might need extra room for that.

I almost went with a hydraulic throw out, and actually ordered one from Jegs, but then returned it and went with the Wilwood set-up. Three things that I didnt like about the hydraulic T.O.:

1. If something goes wrong with the T.O., you need to drop the trans to get to it.

2. Cost (they are pretty spendy)

3. No over-travel protection. If you pushed it out too much, the bearing would pop out of the housing. (If its set up right, this probably would never happen....but...)

[metalshapes]

I made my own Hydraulic setup in the '28 out of late '50s Chevy Truck parts.
It works good, no complaints.
I have a hydaulic setup in a English car I own, and I am going to change that to Mech.
I put it together with brand new parts a couple of years ago and it leaks, wont keep its adjustment and has a Dead feel to it.
My favorite is a cable setup, they work smooth, and most of the time you can take them apart without losing adjustment, or getting brake fluid all over the place...

[flt-blk]

I run a hydraulic clutch pedal (Tilton) with a Wilwood slave.

Cooked the O-ring in the slave cyl because it was too close to the exhaust and the guy at Willwood send me a complete rebuild kit for free.
TZ

[Slag Kustom]

i like the hyd with a slave it is much cleaner then mecanical but not as neat as the hyd throw out bearing.
im running wilwood reverse mount pedals in my channeled 4" and section 2 1/2" A pick-up with plenty of room for the masters i may make a remote filler using the stock fuel cap in the cowl

[34Fordtk]

Thats a great looking set up Slag,but how are you going to fill them if you dont do a remote filler??

[41ChevyTrucker]

thanks to all who replied, great info. Slave cylinder is sounding like the best route.

Metalshapes - any more info on the 50's chev parts you used? I am using a '54 bellhousing.

Slag - thanks for the pic. That wilwood pedal setup is tempting. I like the hanging pedals better than floor mount.

[41ChevyTrucker]

[ QUOTE ]
I have a hydraulic set-up on my 51 Chevy, as Scotch said, it is a pain in the ass to bleed, but once you got it, your done.

This is a pretty good combo:

http://www.wilwood.com/products/master_cylinders/combo/index.asp

http://www.wilwood.com/products/slave_cylinder/slave_cylinder.asp

Although, the slave cyl is a little long, so you might need extra room for that.

I almost went with a hydraulic throw out, and actually ordered one from Jegs, but then returned it and went with the Wilwood set-up. Three things that I didnt like about the hydraulic T.O.:

1. If something goes wrong with the T.O., you need to drop the trans to get to it.

2. Cost (they are pretty spendy)

3. No over-travel protection. If you pushed it out too much, the bearing would pop out of the housing. (If its set up right, this probably would never happen....but...)



[/ QUOTE ]

all good points on the hydraulic throw out. I think I will stay away. thanks

[metalshapes]

[ QUOTE ]


Metalshapes - any more info on the 50's chev parts you used?

[/ QUOTE ]

If I remember right, it was off a late '50s big truck ( like a dump truck or something. I believe they listed it up to the '61 )
It is the same Dual cylinder/single reservoir firewall mounted one you see on a lot of Trad Cars, but it was the only one with the small bore that I wanted.
I got the Slave to match that, made my own Slave Bracket and I used a pushrod out of a Ford 302 Engine to connect it all...

[Slag Kustom]

a plastic clear tube on the end of a funnel. there is more then 2 1/2 inches between the cowl and the top of the master cover . if you go with the wilwood or tilton pedal setup make sure you get the shorter pedals . the long ones made the masters too high

[Detonator]

I'm running swing pedals in my 28 r-p/u, with an International truck dual master cyl (off the shelf from the local parts store). I'm running a Wilwood "pull-type" slave cylinder. My big Offy bellhousing doesn't give me enough room for a push-type slave, put there's plenty of room along the tranny for the pull-type. It's a clean set-up, but haven't fired it yet...