View Full Version : PAINT, More Paint tech Ryan add this to the post
Continued from this post: TECH O MATIC FLAMES/ MASKING (http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB4&Number=86901&page=0&v iew=collapsed&sb=5&o=31&fpart=1)
I couldnt reply to the post so here it is...
some more INFO
im all done with the layout and the flames are CUT
here are some pics hold on for the next step...
front fender... all keeping with the "theme"
now that you look... the BLUE tape always pulls back a little and leave some residue. DO NOT LEAVE THIS BE.
you can remove it.... with dx 330 and a qtip
do this to every lick... be patient... it will MAKE the line quality very tight...
make sure that you wipe down all the exposed area "just in case" to prevent FISH EYES...
i use laq thinner actually,, and DONT SOAK the tape up with it... use it lightly
now your ready to start the painting....
go over every square inch of tape and make sure its tight, flat and there are now holes... and use a tac rag lightly over the area you are going to paint.
I just had to add some more 'info'
thanks
tuck
Kevin Lee
06-12-2003, 04:07 PM
Here's another trick. Throw a big fat piece of tape over the top of where that pulled back, run your fingernail around the edge, and when you peel it off it takes the gunk with it. Of course you still clean it, but it's a bit easier.
D Picasso
06-12-2003, 06:11 PM
you guys like to throw a little clear on before the color coat to help seal the tape to prevent crawling? always worked for me, got a nice sharp line.
Grim's tip is great....I remember spotting that in a Bill Hines article some time back. it works!
dondanno
06-12-2003, 06:34 PM
or maybe your first base coat color along the tape edges before flame base coat. by the way cool layout! Danny http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Peter Pan of Chicago
06-12-2003, 07:11 PM
Great "Hot To", Tuck! Keep up the good work.
YES foiled i spray on a coat of DBU 500 clear base coat....
BTW grim your little tip works TITS im gonna use it from now on... thanks
i just got done spraying it and unmasking it... it looks sweet. Now for clear.
I'm up in arms weather to shadow them "very lightly" with gold pearl...
damn it....
ill post pics later
tuck
tuck,
damn! i'm going to be away from computersville for the next 4 days. i hope this stays at the top 'til then. otherwise i'm gonna have to dig several pages deep into the past to be able to see your finished pix...
Button
06-12-2003, 09:01 PM
HONEY!!!
Art's gonna LOVE it! I can't wait to see it tomorrow!
te-he!
-Jolene
Rocky
06-12-2003, 09:17 PM
Tuck...read your E-mail.....
deuceguy
06-12-2003, 09:24 PM
Excellent how-to. Thanks for taking the time. Love the HAMB!
ok so a sneak peak
its dull becuase its not cleared yet... but check out the NICE LINE QUALITY i was talking about... no bleed thru's and alot of that is due to laying clear down first... thanks for reminding me to mention that dan. I spray clear base coat.. you can spray clear down as well..
ok first shot... close up i shadowed it with gold pearl.. i mix it really light so i can make multiple passes with the brush... this gets your hand in a smooth motion with the line.
If you mix the pearl/clear base too thick it will be like painting with a broad marker, one wiggle and it will show...
none of this is going to "pop" or stand out untill I apply the clear... but this is what it looks like in base coat.
one more shot and on to clearing...
stay tuned...
the dark shadowing underneath is clear/gold pearl mixed, you cant see it yet... but its there and smooth if you look on the first pic i posted its kinda apparent on the left side of that flame lick.. you can see the pearl. This is when it looks cool... but BLA BLA BLA, now for some 2042...
Button
06-12-2003, 10:16 PM
you're crazy...WHAT HAVE I GOTTEN MYSELF INTO?!?!?!
Ha-ha...
can't wait to see that under clear...
unh...
-Jolene
dondanno
06-12-2003, 11:03 PM
NICE! You shootin clear Tonight?
Roothawg
06-12-2003, 11:09 PM
Is that clear base you mention an intercoat clear?
That will also give you more time if you are laying out a lot of different colors. It doesn't add very much mil thickness eihter.
Button
06-13-2003, 12:10 AM
AGGHHH!!!
Absolutely GORGEOUS!!!
Soooo can't wait to see it in real life...agh...
goodnight!
-Jolene
so there it is... in all its glory w/ clear.
I wanted to add a couple things.. if there are any "lips" on the flames they can be rubbed off... with a tack rag/ or viva towel... and then a tac rag again~ any tricks for that GRIM?
I used your tape trick to pick up some excess glue~
it looks 100 times better under "real" light and not the florecent white light...
anyays, time to clean up shop... hope u guys DIG
ill post pics tomorrow of the parts ON the bike...
tuck
56olds-ERDY
06-13-2003, 12:24 AM
TUCK,
thats super nice work!!
way to go!!
eric
dondanno
06-13-2003, 12:27 AM
You know Tuck I have never been a fan of I guess tribal flames but DUDE that looks GREAT http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif!!! Very nice work...Danny
danny
i know what you mean about tribal flames but i just put a little back hook on the flames so they would lock up together in a pattern... i didnt really think of it as tribal.
glad you guys dig it... im ok with it.... layouts are always the first thing I bag when i look at a bike and im sure some of u would've done something different
I'm wet sanding rightnow... ill take pics of what to use, paper grit w/ pics and post later. It'll be a late night http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
ROOTHAWG
i just used base coat clear its pictured in the tech o matic post next to the intesifier. Its called DBU 500... just lay that down to keep it from creeping like foiled again mentioned above....
tuck
Button
06-13-2003, 10:49 AM
Do you EVER sleep?
ok
now that the clear has cured..
its time to take care of the texture, knobs and any thing else that may have gotten in the paint
I use Dura blocks for wet sanding...
wet sand useing water and soap which helps to carry away the clear as you sand
you need a rubber squeegie and i use 1200 grit WET sometimes a #1000 grit first if its real bad then go up to 1200...
you want to make sure you apply enough clear to sand the clear and not rub through into the flames you just painted
i like a finish so you cant "feel" the flames at all. A nice HARD block will level the clear, a soft block is good for curves.
I like to sand at an angle, or sometimes cross hatch
when you start to sand with the block you can see the imperfections arise in the paint... keep sanding evenly across the panel and not just the spot where the imperfection is. Here is a pic of what i call a KNOB... a big speck of dust buried in the clear... sand it off.
use a rubber squeegie to remove the water so you can "see" whats going on...
once you get the panel wet sanded... you polish... and i need to take some more pics.. ill be back later with more of the buffing. BUT heres a pic of the tank wet sanded and BUFFED/Polished... this is what you can achive in your own garage.
when i built my shop we put in a DOWN DRAFT set up.. so the grates in the floor SUCK the dust and dirt DOWN TO THE GROUND. You need good ventilation when painting... one thing that can happen... is you can paint it. Go to bed...
the next morning come out and it'll look FLAT. WHY? because overnight while it was cureing the solevents came out of your work... floated up in the air and then settled back down on your work...
keep a fan on at night,, on low... it'll keep your finish.
one more
D Picasso
06-13-2003, 02:25 PM
Aces!
great job, Mr. Tuckner. nice work, well documented, a mysterious task explained. this here's what the HAMB is supposed to be.
plus I'm totally jealous of your shop, you bastid!
thanks Dan...
i took a WHOLE DAY OFF
They were gonna haul it up and assemble it at my shop// but he didnt have help to load it.. so he took off empty. I was pretty bummed b/c i wanted pics of it assembled.
I will post pics of this next week finished/photographed...
Say next time you visit MN... look me up!!! I can show ya around. (pine city) lol youve prob already been here!!
Were still planning on next spring break to head down your way again. I'm planning on driveing the Galaxie. I think it would be fitting...
tuck
Dat Dirty Rat
06-15-2003, 12:03 PM
Tuck- I've told you over & over...YOU ROCK!! Killer flame job..you are one nice muthaf-er...Dirty
thanks rat
i took a pic of a picture b/c my scanner wasnt working...
well here is a pic of the Frame/bike that these parts are going on.
I used a FOAM pad to polish with
I use a varible speed buffer and 3M buffing compound.
The foam pad wont lay as many scratches in the paint as a wool pad will....
Once im done w/ regualar compound I switch to a black foam pad and foam pad polishing compound... and then glaze the work with a breathable sealer
Why breathable????
b/c the paint is still cureing... solevents are still coming out of the paint. So if you use wax you'll trap those solovents and cause the clear to haze...
BREATHABLE GLAZE!!!
I use a product called wizzards.
so heres a shot of that bike I promised.
Brootal
06-16-2003, 12:05 AM
Great work Tuck. In my opinion that's all that "chameleon" type paint should be used for. I see WAY too many Hondas and crap with the whole car painted up in that stuff. Looks shithouse.
When it's used sparingly for flames or graphic work, it looks pretty cool.
Thanks for taking all the time to put that together.
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