Couple of EZ ones

[C9]

Here’s a simple bracket made from 1/8 x 1" aluminum angle and a piece of 1/8 x 1" aluminum strap. Several adjuster holes as you can see. It was used to develop the proper hood line for a good appearance. The initial installation with a supposed to be chopped 1" Deuce radiator had the hood with too much of an uphill line. After a bit of hassling around, the radiator was measured and found to be an unchopped Deuce radiator. The bracket allowed for some experimentation to get the proper line - which to my eye is a line extending out from the cowls downward angle straight to the top of the grille shell. A straight edge laid along same should be very close to cowl top, hood top and grille shell.
If the proper radiator is not on hand, you can use the bracket to mount the grille shell and proceed with building the hood and hood side panels.

XX Grille Shell Temp Bracket

[C9]

Here’s a view of a very simple Dzus spring bracket. I like to use these as changes - if required or desired - later on are easily done. This particular bracket cut out of a piece of 3/16" aluminum channel. Allen bolts shown are 10-32. The .120 thickness frame rails allow for sufficient threads.

[Stevie G]

Okay...now we need about fifty more just like this.
There are so many things that we do in building a car that we take for granted.
Keep 'em coming

[choprods]

Very Good C9....

[Brootal]

BTTT for tech week. Neat stuff as always C9.

[Fat Hack]

Whew! I'm not the ONLY one who uses strap, aluminum, and various other stock to make stuff! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Good work...liked the alternator mount, too...but I woulda driven myself crazy trying to mount it down low...near the oil pump or something! Ya done GOOD, Man!

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[C9]

There's a lot of cool brackets et al just waiting for an imaginative eye to pull it out of a piece of old Telephone Co. aluminum channel.
One thing that makes this little Dzus spring gadget look good is the nice inside curve to the angle as well as the rounded taper of the short leg foot.
Plus, at 3/16" thick it can do the job - as the similar one in the 32 has done for ten years.

I did give the alternator a shot about hanging it down low on the left (oil pump is on the right) but decided to leave room for an A/C compressor. That was the sales point to Sweetie anyway, but you don't really need it if you run a top.

One thought I've had is to use the open - sorta - area on the left front of the engine is to pop a power steering pump on there and use a Vega/Monza power steering box.
Probably won't cuz the ball bearing steering column steers plenty easy, but it would be a fun project.

There may be a late model small car - American or foreign - that has a small integral fast ratio power steering box.
And probably has a small pump as well.

Course, as much as I preach about power brakes not required on these small cars, showing up with power steering would probably get me some strange looks.

Then, there's always disguise.
Wrap the PS pump with aluminum foil, run a flexy air tube to a cold air box, call it a turbo and be done.... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[DrJ]

About Power steering.
It's a good thing as long as it's just power assist, and not power over-steer.
Wifes light weight Civic has it, standard equipment I believe.
My 60 El Camino doesn't and I can steer it even with the 13" "Hand Cuff" wheel in it.
It's because the Elky runs 0º Caster!
It doesn't have to overcome gravity to turn.
With a lot of caster you are lifting the front end when returning from a turn to straight ahead .
Put off-set wheels on either one then the steering axis goes off and makes either one even harder to turn.

I'd just like to make a comment for those who may not know it.
It appears C9 uses a felt marker to line stuff up.
Not a problem< I do that too because it's more readily available than Dykem blue.
The problem is if you leave it on and paint over it it will bleed through, no matter how many coats of paint, forever!
That's why you see it bleeding thru paint in publicplaces where taggers have used it.
Just make sure you wash it all off with lacquer thinner, or whetever.

[C9]

[ QUOTE ]
It appears C9 uses a felt marker to line stuff up.


[/ QUOTE ]

I use a felt marker sometimes to lay out a small background for scribed lines.
The lines you see are from a Sharpie.
I'm guessing - due to the smell - Sharpies have a lacquer based ink in them and that may be why they create problems underneath paint.

I'm hoping that lacquer smell means it will wash off with lacquer thinner or acetone.
That 'll be done prior to sand blasting the frame.

Far as the body goes goes, I quit using it on the body components on the primered areas.
That after we discussed it when we were talking scallops on the 31 and I'd drawn them on the primer with a Sharpie.
Did use it on the bare metal hood sides and like the frame I hope it washes off with lac thinner or acetone.
No sandblasting here, but maybe some plastic media blasting.
Or hitting the afflicted area with a orbital sander and 100 grit &amp; then doing the washdown bit.

It's a darned shame that a neat product like the Sharpies create such a problem for us.

I'm wondering if the "paint pens" I saw at the stationary store yesterday do the same thing as far as bleed through goes.
The particular paint pens I saw left a lighter mark on paper than a Sharpie would which may indicate they're an ink instead of a paint, but perhaps they would be a good marking option for body steel.

I wonder if bleed-through is noticeable on black paint? http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif