High-build Primers, input from da fume monkeys? aka painters

[Tman]

Been working hard on the touring getting it ready for paint. My paint rep (PPG) hokked me up with some nice high-build primer. I dont know all the technical aspects of it but this stuff rocks! Forgive me for not knowing the name(it is the pinkish/grey stuff).

What I know and maybe the experts can add to this or give input. It sands like talc, smooth and easy. It fills really well, even scratches that showed really bad through the guidecoat when I first started blocking it down.

I had TWO really good coats on it and barely burned through to any bare metal or previous mud. Does this mean my bodywork is pretty true? http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I found it almost impossible to run this stuff when spraying. I could get it to "ripple" like the surface of a lake if I layed into one spot too long. Since I am just getting back into this paint stuff after 10+ years, I tried lots of settings on the gun (new HVLP) as well as just fucking around seeing what the material would do.

WHere I am at now.................I am ready to hit it with a final coat of primer, then plan on wetsanding out with 400Grit. I am shooting PPG Single stage urethane for a final paint. Any tips? Ideas?

And finally, these new materials rock! Technology is not a bad thing. Hehehehehe

[Glen]

K36 ?

[Tman]

MP 182, I just called my folks and had them look.

[rogue]

Hey Trent, With the DAU paint, you may want to throw a non sanding sealer on just before paint. The DAU has a tendency to re-wet undercoats and may bring all your scatches back. Good luck , hope it comes out nice........

[roadstar]

Sounds like you are on the right track there Tman.

Thats the beauty of todays ultra highbuild primers, they are like spraying on a final coat of putty. But it goes on even, so you don't have to sand out the lumps and lines like when you spread putty. And like you say almost impossable to run.

If you use the same stuff on the final prime coat it helps to reduce is slightly so it lays down alittle flater. Then you don't have as much sanding to flatten it out nice.

The 400 should be just fine. And we use DPLF as a sealer.Gives you real good color holdout.

Depending how well you lay out the topcoat, you can get it to look like the slickest lacquer job by starting with 1000 or 1200 to get it good and flat and then 1500 and finish with 2000 so you dont have to spend all day rubbing out the 1500 scratches and it should look like glass.

Have fun http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gifAnd oh yeah, your fingers are not done bleeding yet http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

[daddyo54]

I would suggest going to 600 after the 400 just to make you don't have any scratches that show through the paint.

[hemi]

Alright, stupid question of the day....

What exactly does the DAU mean?

[rogue]

Deltron Aqrlic Uethane..............

[Chopped50Ford]

I agree, hit it with 600 before you shoot. You will be better off. Less scratches and your work will be for something and not just effort.

[Tman]

600 it is. Good thing it is only my T and not my 54! Acres of sheetmetal there.