smoothing dashboard---headlight switch question....

[53choptop]

I am smoothing out the dash on my f100 and want to convert my headlight switch (Its a mid 80's GM headlight switch and wiring) to work with a toggle switch instead of the pull switch its got now. Switch will be hidden under the dash.

Anyone have info on that?

Also using a mid 80's tilt column with the high beam on the column , I will be converting the high beam to work with a foot switch to remove the lever, trying to clean up the colum area also. I think I can figure that one, but if you got info It'd help.

Rey

[36-3window]

why not just hide the pull switch under the dash?

i like a smooth dash too , that's why i mount all the switchs on a small panel under the dash with the tips of the knobs slighter sticking below the lip of the dash

[Fat Hack]

How 'bout modifying a dimmer switch (floor mounted, foot operated) to work like a lamp switch?

One click = low beams on
One more click = high beams on
Another click = headlights off

and so on!

You'd have to wire up a relay to trip the tail lights and front marker lights when the headlamps are on, but I'm sure it wouldn't be TOO difficult with a little effort!

Clean and sneaky! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[SwitchBlade327]

wouldn't he have to turn his lights off for a second when a car comes and he has his high beams on though? I would keep the pull switch for the lights and just mnounth it behind the dash so you pull it down to turn it on, and push it up to turn it off....

[C9]

First up, get DC rated toggle switches.
10-25 amp rated ought to do it.

(Many toggle switches are AC rated and they don't do well on DC because the arc is harder to break.)

Next, get two toggle switches, two headlight relays and a terminal block.

Run a wire from a source to a fuse and then to the first toggle switch.

Wire the taillights and park lights to this first toggle switch and proceed to the terminal block and the taillights and park lights from there - makes for nice place to split them up for trouble shooting.
This assumes you're running a double circuit park light - one filament for parking/running and the other for turn signals.

Run an additional wire from the tail/park toggle switch as a hot wire to the headlight toggle switch. What you're doing here is energizing the headlight switch from the park switch. An inline fuse is a good idea as well. You need to protect against a shorted wire from toggle one to toggle two as well as the wiring to the dimmer switch and to the relays.

Run a wire from headlight toggle switch to dimmer switch.
Run a wire from low beam side of dimmer switch to one of the headlight relays.
Run a wire from high beam side of dimmer switch to the other headlight relay.

Run a properly fused 10 gage wire from a source to each of the headlight relays.
Run 14 gage wire from relays to headlights - fuse these right next to the relay.

You're well protected with fuses in all the right places and any problems will more than likely be self-evident and not much trouble shooting required.

Operation is as it seems - turn on toggle 1 which energizes park lights and taillights.
Turn on toggle #2 which energizes through the dimmer switch to the headlight relay for low or high - whatever's been selected -the relay will close energizing the headlights and you're in business.

If you like you can leave the headlight toggle on all the time and control everything in one shot with the park/tail toggle.

There are other ways to do it, but this is a good system that's worked for me in a number of cars.
Nice part is, the headlights get full voltage due to the headlight relays being sourced with ten gage wire.

[Rocky]

I agree with C-9 regarding using a relay to control headlights. You'd be amazed how much brighter your headlights will be by using 10 gage wire to power them. A wonderful side benefit is never worrying about the circuit breaker in your light switch [37 Ford pickup with a 70's LTD light switch] cutting out while rounding a curve at 1 in the morning wayyyyyyyyy out in the forest in Oregon with one oncoming car.....a cop car.
Don't ask.......

[Fat Hack]

Amen on the relays!

Kustomscaraudio sent me a few sweet Bosch relays, and I used one for the low beam circuit, and one for the high beam circuit on my car when I recently wired up the headlights.

I just installed standard sealed beam #6014 headlights (not Halogen) and they are PLENTY bright, even with no alternator turning and using an old 'test battery' that puts out maybe 12 volts!

For my switches, I used two cheap pull-on switches and a standard 12v dimmer switch. Pulling one switch turns on the tail lights and dash lights, and the other sends power to the dimmer switch which in turn directs current to either the high beam realy or the low beam realy and then on to the lights themselves. Simple, easy and effective!

(I mounted the two pull switches where the radio knobs used to go, and mounted my dimmer switch above them on the dash to keep it out of the damp and cruddy floor!)