A few questions I need answered.

[shoebox72]

I've been working on my 57 Ranchero, 292 Y-block/fordomatic. I'm putting new glass in the doors & replacing all the fuzzy strips. Is there a certain tool or technique used to staple the fuzzy strip on to the garnish molding? I painted the garnish moldings & don't want to mangle them trying to get the new staples back in. I was also thinking of riviting them on with small rivits. What do you suggest?

Also, on my 51 Chevy HT, 235/3spd. PGrear I want to try to replace the headliner myself, is there a special hammer needed to install the new tacks into the tacking strip? The tacking strip is in a narrow recess in certain areas & it looks like it would be difficult to tap them in with even a SFH. Also any other tips for installing a headliner would be appreciated.

Thanks, Billy

Did I do good C9? http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[Slide]

can't help you on the headliner, but for the fuzzies:

I have replaced these on several cars, and I used #4 x 3/8 flathead (countersunk) screws. Vise-Grip the fuzzies to the garnish (with minimal pressure) and slowly drill thru the fuzzy and the garnish. Run the little screw in. This will go deep enough that the fuzzies will hold the glass away from the screws. And the screws will be deep enough to be invisible...or you can put a drop of black paint on the heads before you put them in.

I got this idea from one of the kits sold by one of the Ford resto parts vendors...it came with the screws.

For the fuzzy channel around the top and vertical edges of the window, I highly recommend 3M Super Wetherstrip Adhesive if you have lost your clips. This will hold everything in until you pull it out.

[C9]

[ QUOTE ]
Did I do good C9?


[/ QUOTE ]

You done good.

Not sure what kind of tacks you're using, but if they are the old style carpet tack made from steel that's been blued, you can get a tack hammer from Sears for under $10.
Works pretty well.

If the tacks are anywhere moisture might get to them you may want to use copper or aluminum carpet tacks.
Aluminum ones are available at Home Depot and the like, copper ones from Lebaron-Bonney in Massachusets.

Course the non-ferrous make-up of copper and aluminum negates the convenience of the magnetic hammer, but it still works well in small areas.

While you're at Sears - or any other hardware store - get yourself a tack/staple remover.
Looks like a plastic handled screwdriver with flattened and curved end slotted for tack removal.
I think these are under $6.
Stanley makes them as well.
In fact, most decent for-real hardware stores will carry tack hammers.

[shoebox72]

Thanks for the info guys, I appreciate it. Looks like I'll be going to the hardware store tomorrow after work.

If anyone has any info on installing headliners that I should know, Lets hear it. All the edeges are held on by tacks I know that much. Do I start installing at the front or rear?

Billy

[CheaterChris]

I used small riviots, they worked perfect!!!

Thanks again for the parking light housings, I jsut need to get the brake lights to work and it will be on the road

Later on
CHris

[CURIOUS RASH]

<font color="green">Yeah,

Like cheaterchris said, I have used small pop rivets.

You can buy them countersunk also and don't run the risk of the screw bacling out and eating your glass.

Of course, a liberal dose of loc-tite would hold the screw in nicely also.

Old dude at a local glass shop told me about the rivets.

RASHY </font>

[Slide]

That rubbery stuff on the back of the fuzzies seems to do an effective job of keeping the screws from backing out on my car. THe head of the screw pulls past the fuzzy and into the black rubber goo, which seems to be enough. The fuzzies have been in my car for 4-5 years as a daily driver, and no problems...yet...

I haven't painted my garnishes yet, so I needed soemthing easily removable, but the pop rivets don't seem like a bad idea if you don't expect to ever take everything back apart.