454 Recipe

[Hellbilly_Buzzard]

I am looking to start the buildup on my 454 4-bolt block. Right now it is punched .030 over. Do any of ya’ll have some proven power buildups that ya’ll would be willing to disclose? Components used and your HP and Torque numbers. Or can you point me to a sight that has some engine buildups I might be able to go from?

Thank you,

Kevin

[Paul]

what heads you use and what you do to them pretty much dictates the recipe..

for just a good strong driver I like the early seventies iron ovals, like the 049 and 781 castings.

for serious power you can't beat some of the aftermarket heads, AFR and such..

I've only had a half dozen or so 454s and none too radicle, there's others here with more serious experience.

Paul

[Dreamweaver]

Not mine, but i got this from a guy on the Chevelles forum. The engine build and performance sections there are killer, lotsa knowledgeable folks. I believe this is what they call the "BSE" combo, some guy named Ed Begsley(sp) that they either hated or loved but he ran killer numbers in a heavy (4000 lb) car with not too exotic parts. Do some searches over there.

Chevelle website (http://www.chevelles.com/cgi-bin/forum/ultimatebb.cgi)
454+.060 = 467
-TRW # 2399 pistons with Speed Pro file fit rings
-10.0 - 10.7 CR depending on deck height, final combustion chamber volume and head gasket used.
-Clevite bearings - mains, rod and cam
-Fel-Pro gaskets
-GM 3/8" rods with ARP bolts and GM crank(cast is fine at this level) with ARP main studs and GM windage tray
-Moroso 6-Quart kicked-out pan # 20401 with pickup # 24440
-Melling oil pump
-Manley or DynaGear double roller timing chain
-#215 closed chamber oval port heads '67 - '68 with 2.19 / 1.88 valves, gasket matched and bowls blended
-Performer RPM Q-Jet Manifold with GM lifter valley splash shield
-Q-Jet carb with 75 main jet, 45B primary rod, AX secondary rods and B hanger
-1/2" phenolic 4-hole spacer
-GM carb heat shield
-Ultradyne 288 / 296 hydraulic cam with matching springs - double w/damper. cam specs are 231I / 239E duration @ .050 with .550 / .575 lift ground on a 110LSA. Install on a 108 intake centerline
-Rockers - either crane steel long slots or a roller. Isky are the best aluminum, Crower the best Stainless steel. Neither are needed at the power level.
-3/8" one piece pushrods Crane or Comp
-MSD ignition- 6AL box, coil and distributer(optional-allows easy curve adjustment)
-Headers - 1 3/4" PRIMARY TUBE WITH 3" collectors. Remove collector(cut off) and install(weld) Flowmaster Scavenger Collectors # C-134214300
-3" headpipes with 3" crossover and 2 1/2" tailpipes. All bends to be mandrel. Use Flowmaster Big Block mufflers 3" in and out, offset - offset (quietest performance muffler) or DynoMax Oval RaceMagnum.
-Mallory Comp 140 fuel pump, regulator and filter plumbed to stock 3/8" fuel line.
-Mobil 1 10W-30 oil, Ford type F trans fluid and Mobil 1 gear lube
-indexed spark plugs
With a turbo 400, ATI 10" converter, 3.73 gears and either slicks or DOT slicks this combo will run 11.60's to 11.90's depending on weather, tuning and driver. My best was 11.49 @ 115 in mine shaft air weighing 4000+ lbs. on pump gas.
This combo is fully streetable and was regularly driven to the track some 140 miles away and 2+ hours(one way) on a weekly basis. It was driven anywhere, never over heated and got 12-13 MPG on the highway with a lite foot.

Set the total timing to 36 degrees and shift at 5800 for best ET.


Same guy, but for a 396.

402 w / 10.3 to 1 compression (calculated)
Edelbrock Performer RPM Q-Jet Manifold
Q-Jet carb w / 75 main jets and 45B rods, AX secondary rods on a G
hanger
1 3/4" primary tube headers w / 3" collectors (go with Dynomax) and
Flowmaster 4-2-1 collectors
Factory lifter valley heat shield
Factory carb heat shield and 1/2" phenolic spacer
Moroso 6-quart oil pan
Factory windage tray
TRW aluminum water pump
Factory 7 Blade thermostatic clutch fan
Dual point distributor
Ultradyne hydraulic cam - 280/288, 223/ 231 @.050 with .525/.550 ground
on a 110 LSA and installed on a 106 Intake centerline with matching springs
Crane long slot steel rocker arms
Factory balancer
Felpro gaskets
Turbo 400 with transgo shift kit full auto valve body
Factory deep pan
ATI 10" converter # 408360(73P)
12 bolt with 3.73 gears
stock front and rear suspension with 1 3/8" sway bars and No-Hop bars
Polygraphite bushings
3" head pipes with 3" crossover and 2 1/2" tailpipes with Flowmaster
Big Block Mufflers Series 50
Mallory Comp 140 fuel pump and regulator
Factory 4-core radiator
This combo was driven anywhere and with the Q-Jet got 13 MPG on the
highway. With this cam you shift @ 5800 and with this valve lift you don't need
a roller rocker. If it's a square bore carb you want then go with the HP
series from Holley and stay away from the Demon which I believe is
junk. If you have the $ and want to step up with the 396, I'd go with a roller
setup. The problem is though that nobody makes a roller small enough for this
combo but you might want to give Comp a call and see if they'll custom grind
you one. Tell them you want a cam that's 232 / 238 @ .050 with .633 / .640
lift ground on a 108 LSA. This cam doesn't exist but they can grind it and
it has my intake lobe as an exhaust lobe for your combo. Don't let them
talk you into anything else. This setup will be 4-5 tenths quicker in the
1/4 mile and make power in the same range. However I don't recommend this
for a daily driver rather for a weekend max effort car that will see regular
trips down the 1320. BTW, this setup will set you back $1000 for everything.
Still the key to everything here is having those heads done by the right
people. Ideally you are looking for a shop that builds stock and super
stock motors and this work should cost about $700. If you are assembling the motor make sure all your clearances are dead on.

[38Chevy454]

You can't really kill the torque, so don't be afraid to put a big cam.

Here are my guidelines that will give a healthy engine:
Use aftermarket heads with oval ports, or stock oval port heads with some port clean-up. Rectangular port not required for street, and will actually run not as good as oval port.
Flat-top pistons with about 8.5-1 final comp ratio. Use cheapo gas, the small increase from high compression is not worth the hassle of premium or worse needing racing gas. Buy good rod bolts and have stock rods resized with new bolts. A good balance job is nice, but not absolute, I think it's money well spent. Bottom end needs nothing else, even with a cast crank, although you may have forged with the four-bolt mains.
Cam about 240-245 duration at .050, yes this is a pretty big cam advertised duration about 290-295 range. Springs to match. Since this will have pretty high lift, use roller tip or full roller rockers. Any good double roller timing chain is fine.
Single four intake, with a 850 mech secondary carb.
Good ignition, a HEI can be modified to work just fine.
Headers and good 2.5 inch or bigger exhaust, dual of course, with free-flowing mufflers. It will be moving a lot of air in and out of the engine, so don't restrict it.

This engine should make approx 500 ft-lb of torque and around 450 hp, maybe more. Shift about 6000 rpm, give or take. Don't wind it past 6400. Still have plenty of street-ability. If auto you will need about a 3000 stall to really take advantage of it, 3500 is better, but more slip on street.

Have fun, I love big blocks and the torque with hp you get from them.

[colorado51]

Yep, get it to breathe. Some good oval port heads, 049’s or 781’s, and a good set of headers/exhaust.

If it is street driven in a fairly light car, you can go with a mild build and still have plenty of tire smoking fun and reliability. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[Hellbilly_Buzzard]

Thanks for all your help? Is this being sold by a HAMBer?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2478909622&catego ry=33617

[Paul]

if those don't get much much higher then the $300.00 they're at now and they are truely ready to bolt on with new guides, seats, springs, seals, keepers, locks and valves, and if you could pick them up yourself they could be what your looking for.

lotta if's..

see if you can find out what was done to them.

Paul

[colorado51]

Hmm, $420 with shipping? Pretty good price I would think.