View Full Version : Cooling question: Radiator hose higher than radiator...??
TINGLER
05-19-2004, 10:04 PM
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34Fordtk
05-19-2004, 10:38 PM
Have you thought about making a metal hose?? Short rubber hose on each end and if you had to you could put a air bleader in the highest point.Or I have seen a in hose radiator cap set up.
I don't really think there's a problem here.
The hot water is gonna return to the radiator at the rate the pump, rpm and resistance to flow dictate.
More than likely, the air bubble within will get dragged down into the radiator and dissipated while the engine is running and then return when the engine is shut down.
Don't sweat it.
Think about what has happened inside the cooling system when the coolant level in a radiator is very low.
There's an air bubble of sorts, but cooling - granted not as efficiently as it should - is still going on.
Get one of them Prestone back flush kits and put the ugly yellow plastic T in the hose at the highest point, then you can top it off there.
Slag Kustom
05-19-2004, 11:22 PM
im not sure who makes it but they have a t stat housing that has a cap on the top of it. you should try to make the fill at the highest point of the cooling system
on ed roths v8 trikes he did a few things, on calif cruiser he made a small surge tank up high with cap so no air pocket problems, most co that sell drag stuff have small in line surge housings with in and outlet with cap, on asphalt angel with the v6 rad was in back low also with no surge tank, when i drained and changed the anti freeze first time i could not get it to circulate and cool, air was trapped in pump area, stood back for a while and thought, took hose off at highest point, got garden hose and put it in hose with hand holding it while trying to make seal as best as possible held it as close to pump as possible, had someone turn water on at medium blast and you could hear airbubble blow out and all of a sudden walla nothing but water flow so then real fast like in a second pulled garden hose out while shoving radiater hose on to pump, whoops forgot clamp, backup redo and success, many miles of nothing but cool bliss.
burndup
05-20-2004, 02:11 AM
yeah, what he said... splice in a thing with a filler cap....
Arent you SUPPOSED to have a little air in there, for steam expansion?
desertratrodder
05-20-2004, 02:12 AM
V8 Mustang 2's, and maybe the 6 and 4's?? had the inline ( in the hose) water pipe with the radiator cap on it. A cheap source for those, as the aftermarket will probably beat you well for one...
yea you need room for expansion but once you got that air bubble out the cap was on the rad up high and it might of puked a few times but it somehow seeked levels ok. the problem with those trikes was water pump and engine high with both the long hoses going down to below engine ht at bottom frame rails then back up again to radiator. all this monkey business was solved by ed when he went to the vw powered trikes. air is a great cooler???????? especially when going 90 plus and getting around 50 mpg
desertratrodder
05-20-2004, 02:33 AM
[ QUOTE ]
Arent you SUPPOSED to have a little air in there, for steam expansion?
[/ QUOTE ]
A cooling system is supposed to be a sealed system. There is no need for "steam expansion"..
Basically, putting antifreeze in the water raises the boiling point of your system, and, depending on the cap you have on, that raises it further... Adding pressure to the system raises the boiling point. But, add more pressure,like a 16lb cap instead of a 4lb.. you risk blowing hoses, etc.
Expansion tanks are there to take up the liquid pushed out by the extra pressure, as fluids warm up, they expand and go into the tank.....they cool, it goes back in the system...
Air gaps or bubbles can cause localzed boiling in the system, thus preventing the coolant from circulating.. The boiling fluid will exert gas at a higher pressure than the cooler fluid...and restrict it.
I've seen alot of motors get overheated, and damaged by this.. jacking up the front of the vehicle is not as silly as it sounds, and an air bleeder wouldnt hurt either..
The Japanese automakers have used air bleeders forever. Seems to work for them...
lakesmod
05-20-2004, 07:43 AM
I bought a housing extension from Summit(it's made by Moroso) for my 292 L-6.Cost $52.95.
Fred
dixiedog
05-20-2004, 08:46 AM
My buddy Tom has his radiator mounted below in his 41 Willys and uses the thermostat housing with the rad cap on top - the motor is a SBC. He got his from Summit and they are common on circle track cars.
Killer
05-20-2004, 10:32 AM
[ QUOTE ]
I have another Kooky plan. Howsabout I take a length of metal pipe and weld in a bung where I can just open it up and fill from there to eliminate the air pocket on the high hose..... NO inline radiator cap....just use the one on the radiator. This is the CHEAP-O way and, if it would work, its my preferred way.
[/ QUOTE ]
On my wifes Porsche, there's a plug built into the upper hose. You remove the plug and using a coolant sytem pressure tester, you pump it up until coolant comes out of the little cap. Replace the cap on the hose and top off the rad.
I want to try it on a hot rod but haven't had the chance yet.
My T bucket has the rad. way below the engine & what i do is either park the car facing up hill in a driveway or something steep & fill it or I jack it up alittle & take the upper hose off it & fill it thru there.
If your car has a closed engine you can use one of those thermo housing/filler caps from summit but on mines its out in the open.
After mines filled i never have a problem with any "air bubbles" or anything like that so you should be OK
jimV
tommy
05-20-2004, 11:11 AM
Every hot water heating system I've ever worked on needed the air bled out at the top to get it to circulate. (closed system) If it's only an inch or two you may get a way with it.
Isn't it Jimmy Shines truck that has the vents in the upper radiator tube bumps at the top?
Smokin Joe
05-20-2004, 06:19 PM
Here's shine's truck. Not sure if those are vents or bleeds in the top. You're probably right. I never noticed them till you mentioned it.
http://images5.fotki.com/v66/photos/2/213943/808578/PA060015-vi.jpg
Model A Vette
05-21-2004, 11:50 AM
On my roadster the heater is the high point of the system. I used the heater core out of my old Renault. It has air bleed screws on the core.
I had a V8 Corvair which had the rad up front and the engine in the rear. I ran an old expansion tank from a 60's Ford near the engine and had a bung with a radiator drain cock on the highest water pipe up front. It took a while to bleed out all the air but once completely filled the system worked ok.
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