'30-31 Ford Roaqdster on '32 rails help needed

[Dreamweaver]

A buddy of mine has started planning(day dreaming) of a 30 roadster on 32 rails with a bbc chev and a auto.

Guess ive read here or in the mags that the two dont quite fit. Frame needs to be pinched in the front(?) and the rear kickup is wrong?

He is less raw constuction capable than I (is that possible), so he is thinking of buying a base chassis already done and a glass body.

Who makes a 32 frame modded to take a 30 body?

[31Rodder]

this thread might be some insight.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB1&Number=312450&PHPSESS ID=&fpart=1#Post312450

[Tudor]

dreamweaver - you'll need a pinch in the front as the width of the model A cowl is narrower than the cowl on a 32.

check with www.h&hspeedandmachine.com

they pinched my frame for me and did a jamb up job at a great price.

Ask for Rich

Later, Josh

[C9]

You don't have to pinch the frame for the 30-31's. (Henceforth called 31's.)
You do with the 28-29's, but not with the 30-31's - unless you do it as part of a styling exercise.

Transversely speaking, the 31 body fits the 32 frame rails just fine.
Here's a close-up pic of mine.
Note that the hood lip area on the cowl sits at the right point for the rear of the hood and the front of the cowl to fit properly.
Just have to slide the body fore and aft until you get the desired fit.

The 32 rails are American Stamping and it was built following 32 dimensions so your stock 32 frame should work ok.

My body is a Brookville set up for the 32 frame and the only thing required there was to cut the frame rails and spread them outward 3/4" per side. A pic follows this post.
Call it pic "B."
Once the 31 body is slid to where the transverse fit is right you'll find your wheelbase is about 105", roughly halfway between the 32's wheelbase of 106" and the A wheelbase which is 104 - 104 1/2"

Pic "B" shows the frame upside down and the area marked for cutting.
All you have to cut are the two horizontal legs of the frame rail and bend outward - after you have the frame built to 32 specs.
Make sure it's all square when you go back together.

Pic "C" shows the rear axle placement.
Disregard the pinion nose-up angle - the carrier hit the frame table cross bar and all we were checking for here was suspension travel and bind.

If you have a stock A body, you'll have to modify the trunk floorboard. Haven't done that one so I have no info there.
Refer to Pic "C."

The only other bone of contention is what I call the 'kickin' in the lower front of the body's wheelwell.
Note the "Sharpie" marked area which is the piece to be removed.
This little piece of three layer folded sheet metal keeps the body about 3/4" higher than it should be.
Refer to the Brookville Roadsters catalog or website and you'll see that they cut the frame and bring it in 90 degrees for a short distance.
I don't care for that and it was easier to cut a piece out of the wheelwell - bout 1 1/8" high and 3-4" long & weld in a piece of 1/4" rod and do the bodywork bit there.

Cutting the kickin out allows the body rear to drop 3/4" and the 31 body sits over the 32 frame in a mini-channel somewhat like a 32 body on 32 frame does.
This gets you away from the big gap between body and frame.
There's still a gap - bout 3/8" - but you have to get down on your knees to see it and when you're a little ways away you can't see the gap.
Refer to Pic "D."

[C9]

Pic B.

[C9]

Pic C.

[C9]

Pic D.

[C9]

Getting back to Pic B, note the small gap after the bending out bit.
A hand hacksaw was used to make the cut and also for it's small kerf. It doesn't take long and this is one place I would not use a Sawzall.
The frame was reinforced with a piece of 1" wide cold-rolled strap (hot-rolled works ok, I like CR) after the frame gap was welded.
The strap was welded in and further reinforcing accomplished by the boxing plate.

Just for the heck of it, here's another shot of the 31. this one shows the virtual lack of body/frame gap.

The nice thing about building a 31 on 32 rails is that it's not near the work as the more popular 29 on 32 rails is.
Plus, you get the improved styling of the A body, which to my eyes looks better than a Deuce. Far as roadsters go anyway.

[C9]

One last comment, you'll have to make your own body mount setup.
I used 1 x 2" x .120 wall rectangular tubing with one long side cut away. Makes a very nice folded channel that way.

Cushions used were UHMW plastic which is nice to work with and it makes very nice motor mounts as well.
I have a set of them on this car and on the 32 as well.
The 32's mounts work better than the re-pro 48 Ford style buscuits the engine mounts are designed for.

Neoprene rubber body mounts work just fine, but the UHMW gets away from the sag/settling in problems rubber can have after a while.

Referring back to the first pic, the welding was done on the other side and a triangular piece of .120 steel gets added to make a better appearing - and stronger - body mount as well as the weld gets cleaned up.

This pic shows one body mount, there's a total of ten mounts on a well-reinforced and stiff frame.
Note that the mounts are in the body's reinforcing C channels.

[swissmike]

Brookville makes a frame specifically to fit the '31 body. It has a horizontal "kick" that follows the body contour (recess) in the rear wheel area. This eliminates the need to cut and pinch the frame as described above. I use this frame under my '31 roadster and I love it. Those frames are super strong!

[Deuce Rails]

Also, check out a Wescott's catalog (or their website) for frame dimensions, including for a 32 frame modified for 28-29 and 30-31 Model A bodies.

[Dreamweaver]

Thanks for th econtinuing info guys.

C9, you are the MAN!

Now, how about the BBC in a 31 0n 32 rails or a straight up A on A, how badly don't they fit?