Early Ford axle/spindle/kingpin question

[Choptop]

I know one has to fit the kingpins to the spindles (reemed to fit) but do you have to do the same to the axle? OR should the kingpins just "drop" in? (perhaps with some loving taps os the sledge?). Do the pins have to be "tight: in the axle? or does the lock bolt MAKE them that way?

I've got a 47 Ford with the stock front suspension... and am gathering the parts to put in a drop axle and need a little info. I'm planning on setting up a whole new front end OUT of the car (axle, spindles, kingpins, disc conversion), then just pull the stock axle with all its parts attached off the radius arms and do the swap in one fell swoop.

any thoughts?

[Sixcarb]

Nothing to the axle, just fit the kinpins to the spindles, at least that what I've always done.


"Muthaheads"

[four-thirteen]

the kingpins should just slide right into the axle, with no play. the lockbolt just keeps them from spinning around. if there is any play at all, you are going to have problems. if the kingpin doesn't tap nicely into the axle, you need to find out what it's hanging up on, and maybe dress the inside of the hole with a brake hone or something similar. be careful not to take out too much, again, you want zero play between the kingpin and axle. David

[Choptop]

cool, danke mucho...

next question... will I need a dropped pitman arm?

I've got dropped steering arms(that bolt up to the spindles)

[four-thirteen]

no need for a dropped pitman arm. i reread your post. you are going to have a hell of a time getting the kingpins out of your old axle. be ready to use the torch to heat the axle up, and the hammer ready for your best john henry impression. "Son, you must be a steel driving man, Son, you must be a steel driving man"

as long as you have the front end apart, replace the kinpins and bushings. i won't go though the procedure here, i'm sure it's in the techomatic or elsewhere.

i think it should be as simple as just taking the old setup apart, replacing the axle and steering arms and putting it back together. David

[alchemy]

If you think getting the kingpins out is hard, wait till you get to the perch pins. Lots of heat and pressure is required. Many times you can't get them out without boogering the threads on the bottom end.

You also might want to verify the width (as well as thickness) of your new axle at the perches, cause if you plan on using the stock wishbone this is important. If it's different you will need to modify the wishbone. Pulling the wishbone together to match a narrower axle will lengthen the wishbone and move your spring too far forward.


alchemy

[Bruce Lancaster]

A minor trick that will help IF you are lucky: Get from virtually any early Ford parts house a rear hub knocker tool, a sort of threaded cap made to allow hammering on an axle end. This should only cost about five bucks, and has the same threads as your perchbolts. You can now do considerable hammering/pressing without wrecking the threads IF you add a ball bearing inside the knocker and then tighten it well so the violence is transmitted to the center of the bolt and not its threads. This will still be difficult or perhaps impossible.
If you can find someone with perch bots for sale, grab them. If you can find a spare wishbone, you're golden!
I've never had much (knock on rust...) trouble getting kingpins out.

[Digger_Dave]

[ QUOTE ]
...... IF you add a ball bearing inside the knocker and then tighten it well so the violence is transmitted to the center of the bolt and not its threads.....

[/ QUOTE ]

Hey Bruce, that's a trick I hadn't heard before..GOOD one to remember! I would assume the biggest ball bearing as possible. (that would fit inside the nut)
Thanks

[Flat Ernie]

Not to hijack the post, but has anyone used Stainless Steel Brakes' "Royal Kingpins"? They replace the bushings with needle roller bearings. They ain't cheap, but supposedly reduce steering effort a lot (important when you've got an original '32 box!).

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

[Andy]

Never used them but I am sceptical unless the king pins are case hardened. The needle brngs have point contact with the pins and would cause grooving. The 33/34 steering ratio is slower and the car drives a lot better at speed with the slower gears. It also steers easier. Just put the later gears in it!