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View Full Version : rattlecan durability question...painting wheels...


caffeine
04-26-2004, 10:21 AM
going to "spruce up" the wheels on my trump project this week sometime..and was thinking about the best way to do it.


i DONT want to unlace them..so i was thinking about just taping off the spokes and spraying the rim with some rattlecan

orange, green, maybe black...havent decided but its not going to be red.

dont have the jung to powdercoat nor do i want to unlace the wheels.

what i was going to do was do the spokes black and the rim orangey with a black pinstripe going around or something.

is there a need to prime? what should I use...ill be scuffing up the whats left of the crome before doing so.

i dont expect it to be bullet proof, but something that will last a little while, as taping off those spokes are a bitch!

my overall cost of this shold not exceed the cost of the wheels...about 20$ and a drive to homedepot or lowes

haha

delaware george
04-26-2004, 10:48 AM
nice meeting you this weekend....just stay away from krylon,it's crap

caffeine
04-26-2004, 10:59 AM
. yeah...didnt know if i should just use some rustoleum or something else or what i should prime with if i should just use the standard rustolem primer too.

I might go to the lawnmower shop as someone had suggested on another board and pick up some lawnmower paint if i can find it in anything but red or black. haha.

mayeb some john deer tractor green or detroit diesel green.

nice meeting you too

delaware george
04-26-2004, 11:01 AM
i've had good luck with napa's self etching primer....but rattle cans are never like the real shit which you already know http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Mojo
04-26-2004, 11:20 AM
I think most of getting the paint to stick will be in surface prep. Sand it down nice and smooth, and wipe all oils from it. Some time ago, I painted a SBC with spraycan Chrysler Industrial Red, and it held up really really well. I believe the key was washing it in lacquar thinner. I'd take a terricloth rag, wipe the motor down in thinner. Then, do it again until the rag didn't show dirt on it.

Mike
04-26-2004, 11:27 AM
Rustoleum has worked pretty well for me. I painted the gloss white portion of my Ranch Wagon two years ago and even with the AZ sun, it still looks as good as the day I sprayed it. Just be sure to get rid of any rust, scuff the area up (scotchbrite pad worked for me) so that the paint will stick and use plenty of paint (at least three coats). It won't last forever, but if done right, it should look good at least as long as cheap "real" paint.

Munson
04-26-2004, 12:23 PM
Rattle can on motocycle wheels WILL chip, rocks and what not.
But the good thing is its cheap and once they start looking shabby you can redo them for $4.00
If they have paint on them no primer, if they're chrome then prime them first.
Should be a piece of cake!
j

AHotRod
04-26-2004, 12:33 PM
Use Rustolium....it's my friend

radical56chevy
04-26-2004, 02:25 PM
i painted the wheels on my 56 with plastic coat paint..i use the eng paint..leaves a harder coating on the metal.they have a few diff colors, holds up real well..

Deyomatic
04-26-2004, 06:25 PM
I used the Rustolem Hard Hat (comes in a silver can) paint on the wheels on my 55. I think I just wiped them down with mineral spirits and sprayed when it was dry. The shit is a bit more expensive, and one can barely did all 4 wheels, but they don't look too bad. It is supposed to be a harder, tougher paint.

Bruce Lancaster
04-26-2004, 07:11 PM
Heating is a big help in making spray can paint last--a bit of time at maybe 200 degrees after initial drying makes the paint much stronger. During the winter, I frequently just put things on top of a radiator for a day or on the steam pipes at the furnace. For a wheel, either the 0ven set at 200-300 area while any women are at the mall, or set up something close to a bunch of light bulbs. The paint comes out tough enough to survive even a bit of wrenchiing on bolt heads.

burger
04-26-2004, 07:16 PM
What Bruce said. When I'm done painting, I aim my Reddy Heater at the painted part to help cure it faster and harder.


Ed

abe lugo
04-26-2004, 07:18 PM
If you don't care for the chrome and want the paint to stick better, you should sandblast the rims, paint on chrome usually chips away or flakes, just a thought

FrameDragger
04-26-2004, 07:34 PM
I did a few weeks of testing heat curing of paint on Bronze... I found that heating worked great until close to 300 F, at which time the duribility actually started to decrease below original... I shoot for about 250F and it works great... Gotta love the Toaster Oven... Ditto on the "wife outta the house" statement though.

M-

mytlo56
04-26-2004, 07:52 PM
It's all about prep. Just make sure to have them well scuffed and as grease free as you can get em'.

atch
04-26-2004, 08:09 PM
for stuff that's too large for an oven, do you think that making a "tent" out of plastic or cardboard and putting a trouble light under it would get the temp up enough to help? maybe multiple bulbs?

Bruce Lancaster
04-26-2004, 08:20 PM
Multiple bulbs, close but not touching, or sitting on top of the stove with oven on a high setting.
Anybody know anything about special bulds for heating? I tried a bulb meant for heating people (I think), don't remember its designation, and while I couldn't leave my hand in front of it for even a second, it had no effect on parts. I'm sure there's something out there that will do the job.

caffeine
04-26-2004, 08:30 PM
I have 2 of those halogen flood lamps i use in the garage...damn things give me sunburn when i pinstripe....i think they will work!!! !

THANKS GUYS...i should be at it this weekend.