carb coloring and paint by number...

[tokyo]

I am slowly rebuilding some carbs, as most of you might recall..well..I got some reallly clean and ready to be rebuilt...but i want to put some nice color to them...I want to paint the bases black, and the body the original gold color..

Anyone have any experience in doing this?
What is the process...and can it be done without a huge mess..??
Eastwood?....alternatives...someone willing to help a brotha out?

thanks..
tok

[burger]

Tom Green,

I'll help ya out by bumping this back up to the top.

If you want it to stay there, you need more drama. Check this out:

I love four door volkswagon rat rods. Tuck is a FAG. Flat black and red steelies forever! I can build a hot rod for fifty cents, and that's just for the gum I need to keep up my determination and general pompadourability. Your mom.

See man, you gotta drop shit like that or your post is just gonna fall right off the page.

MONSTER GARAGE FOREVER! MY OTHER CAR IS A KEYBOARD!


Ed

[SwitchBlade327]

I dunno why you couldn't just use the engine enamel stuff from the parts store instead of ordering the shit from eastwood. I dunno if regular rattlecan would hold up from getting gas & etc on it, but the engine paint would work, I think anyways. I just noticed you said the gold color though, I don't think they have that, maybe rattlecan gold with a little clear on it?

[rogue]

You ain't Tom, or you'd be fucking my bitch Drew. But, you are fucked with those carbs. Think of them as Drew. Gots me six of those overpriced pieces of shit carbs and have setteled on one thing. Mind you, I will be competing in the 2005 ambr, paint the poss. The eatwood shit looks cheap, not right, cad plating is good but the carbs should be perfect, no imperfections. Put a ppg urathane on them, thin, and call it quits. And you still ain't Tom...............

Rogue is right. I've done carbs before. Start with an epoxy primer then put a eurathane paint over it. Gas will not effect them.
Clark

[Tuck]

ED plays the flute. haha...
Tokyo paints with his fingers

whats happening in PHILLY
are ya gonna order your philly BEEF with cheese?

[geemann51]

The Eastwood stuff will wear off.

I had mine cad plated, cost me 40.00 for three rochester 2gc's even in the "Land of the EPA". Had to shop around though to find a plater that didn't want to ding me on a minimum.

One place wanted 140.00 to do em', shop around or send the bodies to me and I'll take em down to the plater I used.

[tokyo]

Ed...that's hilarious... okay here's some drama.....GERM is a fag...Tuck dry humps his chrome reverse...rat rods don't need brakes..hemi's are for homos who can't get head...primer IS paint..

Rogue...i did....in fact I am married to her...

tuckna...get out from under those clear drips and wipe your ass you stinky schmuck...ha

clark...your probably right..throw some primer, then some paint and then some clear...it's easier than doing "CHASSIS" work...

later,
tok

[whizzerick]

Tokyo, this question came up a while back. For my Whizzer carbs (same 'Zamak' alloy) I use an iridating phosphate called Alodine. It's widely available thru marine suppliers. Folks on this board have tried it with mixed results but I've been using the same 20$ pint for 3 years and am very satisfied with the finish: a light golden hue. The part is bead blasted then dipped in the solution for 10-12 seconds depending on the color you want. Too much and it turns olive drab. It is NOT a bright gold finish like plating, but rather flat and very 'factory' looking. Just another option to consider.
whizzerick

[sawzall]

tokyo

WHAT you want gold? what happened to the teal base with pink graphics you were so hot about.. personally I like there "el natural" look of late...

sawzall

PS.
ed loves TUCK

[tokyo]

hahaahaha.. you know teal is all the rage now..
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

[Bruce Lancaster]

I really dislike the paint approach if it is intended to mimic the gold tint of a new carb--use paint only if the intent is to get a finish that DOESN'T look like a stock carb.
I made the mistake of buying a 97 with this stuff on it, and so far I haven't managed to get it off--it really is good durable paint. All uses of this stuff I have seen, including some by pro rebuilders, look like what they are--a carb sprayed with gold paint. Go Alodine.
By the way, on Strombergs and 94's, vinegar--the cheap gallon jug generic stuff that's strong enough to burn skin--is an excellect final cleaner. Just scrub the carb with this stuff and a toothbrush(someone else's) after getting all grease off, and you get right down to bright metal. It even removes those bulletproof black deposits in the bore. You'll also need a variety of gun/kitchen/acid brushes to get into the nooks.
I only use this stuff in direct scrubbing, and rinse thoroughly afterwards. I wouldn't use it as a soak--I suspect the carb wouldn't be there long at all.
If you have really severe white deposits and corrosion in the bowl from water, put on the nast toilet bowl cleaner with HCL mentioned in the warning labels. Again, very short applications and lots of rinsing, or you'll be looking at your toes through the carb bowl.

[Duck]

You'd best watch yourself Tom, I know where you live...

-Duck

[burger]

Hey Bruce,

This may be a dumb question, but what do you rinse the carbs with after the vinegar? Water? Carb cleaner? Tuck's man juice?


Thanks,
Ed

[Bruce Lancaster]

extra-extra-virgin first pressing olive oil. Hot water if you can't get that. Be sure any oregano added is ground finer than your jet size, or you'll have trouble.

[chopolds]

Tokyo, If you want to go the alodine route...if you guys come to visit, I've got a glass bead cabinet, and a bottle of alodine you can use. Stuff goes a long way, and you'll have a quart forever before using it all!

[tokyo]

duck...when are you getting here...wanna hang out..

tok

[tokyo]

SWEEEETTTT! i will try to find time..maybe some sat in may..
tok