Rerouting an e-brake line. Solutions for low buck housing?.

[Kevin Lee]

The problem. The cable comes out of the backing plate and has about 6 inches before it runs right into the back of the kickup. So I need couple feet of flexible lined housing on each side to re-route the cable. Lokar sells a kit for around a hundred bucks. I'm sure it's nice but no thanks. Do motorcycle shops sell housing by the foot like a bike shop would and would an early Ford e-brake cable fit inside a clutch/brake cable housing?

[sawzall]

grim

I am havin a similar problem at the other end of the system.. any ideas what your gonna do for a hand brake lever??

thanks sawzall

for what its worth take a look under (cant believe I am typing this) TOYOTA pickups.. they have an interesting system that works across the rear axle rather than forward.. (at least I think thats where I have seen them..)

later sawzall

[DrJ]

Early Ford? as in Banjo with split radius rods but didn't/cant split the cables that followed them?
Maybe post war 40's Ford truck with parallel leaf springs had a compatible brake cable housing? or just stat checking out other cars with cables for one with the same cable end to fit the brakes and modify the backing plate to receive the housing...
My Astro Van has lots of cable and housing under it, maybe you can adapt.
There's usually a couple of rows of them in the pick-a-part.
70s Datsun IRS used cable with housing the full length to the brake handle. I have it in my Model A, (along with the IRS)

[Kevin Lee]

Yup, early Ford. Radius rods arent split but ARE Zed horizontally to clear the kick. That's where the problem is. I'm using a handle from an F1 pickup but it will be mounted right on the torque tube. The cable is already there and I'm not interested in pulling the hubs just to swap a cable. Ferrules can be made and clamped at the backing plate and welded at the wishbone...I just need something to bridge that gap and clear the kickup.

[Bruce Lancaster]

This is a visual thinking job. Go to the junk yard and pruse the underside of random vehicles, starting in the pickup truck line. Take along asketch of existing end fittings. Mix and match, being sure to get a few clevises, some piece that will adjust length, and a good variety of mountings to weld to your TT and rods. The solution is out there, in the junkyard, where all truth lies hidden...

[Bruce Lancaster]

That's "peruse". I'll have to ask Germ what "prusing" is...

[Bruce Lancaster]

From memory, a stock setup goes from the lever back to an anchor point on the torque tube, a curved holder/equalizer is on the cable where it emerges from the housing there, then the cable connecting the two rear brake assemblies just passes through the holder. I'd say make the cable from the lever long enough to go way back on the torque tube, then the rear cable makes a shorter triangle than stock as needed. You don't need the supports on the radius rods since everything is short.