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View Full Version : What does it take to get an "engineers stamp" on a building?


Roothawg
04-17-2004, 10:01 AM
I have been mulling over the thought of just building my own shop, so it can be BIGGER and CHEAPER.
I know that there are codes to meet after a structural span exceeds 30'. Just wondering if I designed my own shop could I have an engineer stamp it and be cool?
I have seen a lot of buildings that lack structural integrity and I think I can build a better one.
I work with a whole office of engineers, can they stamp it or do you have to be a building engineer?

How about a train engineer?

FLAT-TOP BOB
04-17-2004, 10:08 AM
you could move to wellington. we just put up what ever we want. no paper work or inspectors here

Roothawg
04-17-2004, 10:10 AM
No life there either.........

McGrath
04-17-2004, 10:26 AM
[ QUOTE ]
No life there either.........

[/ QUOTE ]


Coming from someone who lives in OK..... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Roothawg
04-17-2004, 10:26 AM
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
No life there either.........

[/ QUOTE ]


Coming from someone who lives in OK..... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Coming from someone who lives in Fulton, MO. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

McGrath
04-17-2004, 10:32 AM
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


I used to work for a structural steel fabricator. The owner (not an engineer) drew stuff up all the time, then had our Engineer put his name on it. Probably not a well thought of practice, but I guess it depends on whether you can get an engineer to go along with it.

FLAT-TOP BOB
04-17-2004, 10:34 AM
what no life! we have a DQ to eat at and walmart is only 30 miles away. what more could you want?

Levis Classic
04-17-2004, 11:23 AM
Roothawg -

I am an engineer and work with structural engineers. You could find a local lisenced engineer to look over your drawings and either stamp them or make suggestions. Have them look at your beams if your going to put up a hoist. Doesn't take much more "beefing of the beams" to get a nice hanging hoist in your garagemajal!

I would look for a one or two man firm - cost will be less and they are willing to do small jobs. You should expect to pay $100 to $200 for an engineers seal. Remember once he seals it some of the liability falls on him and the building department is more likely to give you a permit quicker!

It depends on your state for which type. Here in Michigan any enginer or architect can stamp it. For expample in Illinois you have to be a liscenced STRUCTURAL engineer. I would still have someone who does structural work look at it to be safe. $100 to $200 is awful cheap to feel safe.

If you need any info let me know.

Crease
04-17-2004, 11:33 AM
Root,

Levis is right on. You need a licensed engineer (PE) in your state to sign off on the plans. Degree dont mean crap when it comes to signatures.

Chris

D Picasso
04-17-2004, 12:58 PM
do it. a local guy had a steel building installed on his property and it became clear it lacked certain structural considerations. long story short, he had a PE friend of mine look it over and it required many thousands of dollars of retrofitting so that it wouldn't blow away or collapse. 200 now or 20,000 later.

Deyomatic
04-17-2004, 01:48 PM
To touch a bit more on what Levi and Crease are saying. A PE (Professional Engineer) would be the equivalent of someone that has a doctorate, exept it is given out by the state. It is a special credential given out by the state after you pass a special test. The state is certifying that you know what you are doing.
My father has been a Civil Engineer since 1968, but he is not a PE and can't stamp drawings- he just never got around to taking the test. One of the guys in my old office was only 28 years old, yet he was a PE because he took and passed the test.

choprods
04-17-2004, 02:37 PM
slip em a C note and let it rip! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Phil1934
04-17-2004, 02:40 PM
It sounds like you are looking at a post and beam type construction. Wind loads will govern over earthquake, etc. and the uplift and racking will require careful consideration of the joints over the redudndant stud walls typically used. I'd say you'd pay more than $200, but less than $1000. $200 would be about right just to test the soil and design a foundation. However ask the local building inspector before you do anything and see what your requirements are.

DrJ
04-17-2004, 02:43 PM
Before reading any of the above I was going to say, MONEY!

Roothawg
04-17-2004, 05:54 PM
I was thinking of setting the uprights in piers, approx 3 ft in the ground. Filling with concrete. Then adding my trusses, do a monolithic pour on the floor, then add the sheetmetal. I could save a lot of money this way but it takes a lot more time. It's also noty uncommon to have winds in the excess of 100 mph during storm season. I was thinking of using 4" square tubing- 1/4" wall. for the uprights. Heavy stuff. Then connect the perlins with 2x3 rect. tubing maybe 11 ga. wall.thickness. Use the same on the trusses.

Crosley
04-17-2004, 06:40 PM
probably 5 $-grand on up to get a signature per my nephew.

I had my nephew draw up my plans for my shop ( 2800 sq ft, 13 foot ceiling) a wood frame construction building ..... he does the grunt work of the drawings for architects.

The framing contractor installed the 'sheer material " per code from his experience. This gives the building it's needed strength to avoid twisting / bowing of the walls then collapsing.

My plans were approved by the local county gov.

I needed engineering drawings and specs ONLY for the trusses which is a common item provided by the truss builder here in AZ for gov inspector approval on the job site.

I had to have a "compaction test" also... $450.00 , This proves the ground will accept the weight of the building.

My building passed all inspections the first time and I even wired it myself.

NoSurf
04-17-2004, 08:14 PM
I am a Structural Engineer.

However, I am an EIT (Engineer In Training) as I cannot take the PE test until October of this year as one needs 4 years of practical experience as an EIT working under a PE to be eligible to take the test. (I do alot of crane hoist design for water/wastewater treatment plants, those big pumps and motors are heavy ya know.)

What these guys have said is pretty much on. Look in the phonebook for a structural engineer that works out of his home or something. Don't go to an office = $$$. Shop around, get a few estimates. Should be a few hunnert bucks.

If you don't have any luck, drop me a PM.

My old boss did the structural design for the Federal Building Monument. Small world.

Luke Jivetalker
04-17-2004, 10:41 PM
Root, I know you're thinking on the cheap, so this option is kinda iffy, but I've seen hundreds of these things built and they kick ass Butler Pre-Engineered Steel Buildings (http://www.butlermfg.com/)
Maybe you could give em a call and see what they can offer you in the way of buying one of thier products, can't hurt