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View Full Version : SUSPENSION, 36 radius rods on the outside of the frame?!


Cheater Casey
04-05-2004, 05:47 PM
I want to run 36 radius rods with a 9 inch rear on my roadster. School me on how you'll are running them. I want them to run on the outside of the frame.

Show me the money!

SamIyam
04-05-2004, 06:11 PM
I don't have pictures here... but I ran them in a wishbone configuration, tied together with the yoke from a Model A front wishbone, on the rear of the RR. It works like a charm. The anchor point is the tranny crossmember... and the plus side is that there is no need for a lateral bar... i.e. Track Bar or panhard bar.
Sam.

Hot Rod Ron
04-05-2004, 11:12 PM
If you look at the last Kar Kulture deluxe mag my old model A coupe and Metalshapes roadster are both in there. They work great on the outside. Look at the pictures to see how we did them.

metalshapes
04-06-2004, 12:06 AM
Also look in the Tech O Matic, "A-Bone Suspension Question".
Where we talk about different kinds of rear suspensions, and this one too.

Nimrod
04-06-2004, 12:18 AM
Heres mine.
I curved the '36 bones to match the contour of the deuce frame. They are the lower links in a four link. Works real nice.

Nimrod
04-06-2004, 12:20 AM
Here's a shot of the split curved '36 bones and the upper links.

Nimrod
04-06-2004, 12:21 AM
And here's the 9" they locate.

thirtytwo
04-06-2004, 12:35 AM
[ QUOTE ]
Heres mine.
I curved the '36 bones to match the contour of the deuce frame. They are the lower links in a four link. Works real nice.

[/ QUOTE ]

ive wondered how well this works arnt your lower bars and the tops travelling on differnt arcs? or are the top bars at such a diagonal it doesnt seem to effect it??? i really like the idea though... ive been trying to figure out how to make it work without a bind

Nimrod
04-06-2004, 12:49 AM
Yeh...definetly different arcs but it wont bind, its a four link, The long radius rods on the bottom are set up to pivot at the rear end. The top links are shorter and as the rear goes up or down the pinion angle changes a little. A true split wishbone will give you lots of bind as the body tries to roll in corners, The entire rear acts like a big sway bar that is too big to twist.
I broke a couple of brackets that way.
Here is a shot of the lower rod mounts and spring perch.

thirtytwo
04-06-2004, 01:02 AM
ok now i get it... thats what the two other brakets in the first pic are ...thanks! ,how much does the pinion angle change i would think it would be quite a bit?? what did you use for a bushing in the bottom bracket???

ive seen your car before extreemly well thought out and good fab, it reminds me of the fit and finish of some of the engish guys cars it always amazes me how dead on your car is everything flows well

Nimrod
04-06-2004, 01:06 AM
It's not a whole lot. There is only a couple inches of suspension travel.

fab32
04-06-2004, 02:40 AM
Nimrod, Very clean looking installation.

Frank

Digger_Dave
04-06-2004, 02:10 PM
RYAN or GRIM

Think this thread deserves to be in TECH alongside the other "wishbone" thread.

BTW - Nimrod what or how did you make the curve in/on the wishbones? I think it shows some excellent attention to detail!

Cheater Casey
04-06-2004, 04:49 PM
Good shit, Nimrod, the curve is killer. Show some more pix!

NealinCA
04-06-2004, 05:12 PM
[ QUOTE ]
RYAN or GRIM

Think this thread deserves to be in TECH alongside the other "wishbone" thread.

BTW - Nimrod what or how did you make the curve in/on the wishbones? I think it shows some excellent attention to detail!

[/ QUOTE ]

I agree. I think this is the best solution to split wishbone I have seen.

Great work.

Neal

Hackerbilt
04-06-2004, 05:58 PM
Good idea on the bushing mount/adapter!
Why did you chop the spring hangers off the wishbones and make new ones for the housing? Can't see why the originals wouldn't work as they were...?!!! Too low with the bushing adapters maybe?

Bill

Nimrod
04-06-2004, 08:22 PM
I made the curve by heating 'em with a rosebud one spot at a time and giving it a little bend. I think there are twelve bends on each radius rod, can't really tell to look at 'em.

Nimrod
04-06-2004, 08:29 PM
And I didn't use the spring hangers on the original wishbones because they were already cut off and I would also worry they might try to rotate (turn) the radius rods, and put a constant load on the nylon busings I used at the back pivots.

Hackerbilt
04-06-2004, 11:17 PM
Hmmmm...Yeah!
That would put a sideways compression on the bushing wouldn't it! Didn't think of that.
Still, I think if I were doing the 4 bar thing with a set of bones, I'd add a welded bushing to a later set rather than chop up a nice ORIGINAL set of 36'ers! (I realize you DIDN'T!)

I just love the look of those 36's with the forged spring hanger extensions in place. SCREAMS nostalgia!

Bet she handles and rides nice with those long links though...excellent work bud!http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Roothawg
04-06-2004, 11:23 PM
Why have the upper links? Just curious. Couldn't you run a panhard bar and the bones and be ok? Looks like a neat setup.

Tman
04-06-2004, 11:53 PM
I had planned to run a triangulated set of bones just like this. When my rear kickup went to 9" I had to change my plans as the upper links would have ended up 6" inside the car! I went with a 3rd "torque arm" link. I will post pics as soon as the chassis goes together. You can see the front mount on my chassis post.