Y-Block Tranny HELP,,, PLEASE!!!!

[HeX]

I think I finally got the 272 in my wagon ('55 country sedan), back to life, for a while,,, but now the tranny seems to be slipping... I need some help identifying the tranny and getting some general info...

The casting number on the tranny is 19-24385. The car is a 1955 Country Sedan with a 272 (at least according to the block numbers)...

Any help?

The first thing I'd like to do is get a little more info on the tranny that's there so that I can adjust it and see if the years were just a little unkind to the factory settings... I am HOPING that I don't need to rebuild it...

If adjusting it doesn't do the trick, then the second step is to weigh the options - rebuild or buy another... then the question is where to get a re-build kit, is it worth it, what would bolt up to my engine without much problem...


PLEASE, give me a hand...

Thanks,

Tim

[HeX]

anyone?

BTTT.

[williebill]

Fordomatic? 2 speed? when you said back to life,has it been sitting for a while?How much have you tried to drive it?Checked the obvious? Plenty of fluid?
I remember my 55 wagon from high school.The 2 speed was like a powerglide,but it wasn't a performance car anyway,so it worked fine.Had to downshift manually for a big hill,it never would kick down.

[HeX]

Sorry... not enough info... It has not been sitting per se... The jack-leg that I got it from did NOTHING... I replaced the bent push rods, adjusted the valve lash, adjusted the timing, and generally tuned it up... It runs good, HOWEVER, if I stop on any sort of incline it doesn't move again, it revs, hard, but won't go. If I don't stop on the hill, I'm fine but if I stop, forget it...

I checked the fluid, didn't look the best but not too bad... Filled it up and it didn't get any better...

Tim

[286merc]

Fordo has adjustable bands but if youve smoked the fluid you are maybe SOL.
Procedure is in the shop manual as well as Motors of the era.

[japchris]

Its quite important on Fordomatics to have the kickdown rod adjusted properly for them to work right.
Basically you have to disconnect the kickdown rod to the trans up at the engine end. Then on the kickdown sprung mechanism on the intake find the two holes on the bracket and slide in a suitable size drill bit and line it up with a third hole on the "movable " part of the throttle linkage. Then pull the kickdown rod upwards until it hits the stop in the gearbox - adjust the end of it so it slips straight back onto the throttle linkage, take it off again and turn it back out (make it longer) by two and a half turns, and refit. Make sure your idle setting on the carb is correct and then remove the drill bit. It might not save your trans if its already toast, but useful to know to stop ruining another. (according to the manual - If band or clutch slippage is still evident after doing this, increase the length of the rod to 3 turns but do not exceed 3 and half turns of the clevis ).

[HeX]

Does anyone have the band adjustment specs for a 1955 fordamatic tranny? My first plan is to get it adjusted properly and then check the kickdown and see what happens... If no better then I'll have to drop it and check it out more thoroughly.

Thanks for the help..

Tim

[HeX]

bttt...

[286merc]

Ask me tomorrow if you dont get an answer.
With this busted leg Im not set up yet to access my manuals or the scanner.

[japchris]

The 1955 manual unsurprisingly refers to "specialist tools", but heres what it says anyway -
Loosen the front servo adjusting screw locknut two full turns with an 9/16th inch wrench. Check the adjusting screw for free rotation in the servo actuating lever. Free up the screw if necessary. Pull back on the actuating rod, then insert the gauge block of the front band adjusting tool between the servo piston stem and adjusting screw. Tighten the adjusting screw until the wrench overruns.
Back off the adjusting screw exactly one complete turn, then hold the adjusting screw stationary and tighten the locknut clockwise to 20-25 foot pounds torque. Remove the gauge block. Caution - Severe damage may result if the adjusting screw is not backed off exactly one complete turn.
Rear Band - Remove all dirt from the adjusting screw threads, then oil the threads. Loosen the rear band adjusting screw locknut with the tool pictured ( a torque wrench with a T handle coming out the back of the socket).
Using the T handle of the tool, tighten the adjusting screw until the wrench overruns. Note - if the screw is tighter than wrench capacity (10 foot pounds torque), loosen the screw several turns and retighten until the wrench overruns.
Back off the adjusting screw 1 1/2 turns. Hold the adjusting screw stationary, and tighten the adjusting screw locknut to approx 35-40 foot pounds torque. Severe damage may result if adjusting screw is not backed off exactly 1 1/2 turns.
If you got a fax number I can send a copy of the relevant page with its pictures.
Good Luck !

[HeX]

Jap Chris... You have a pm...

THANKS!

Tim

[HeX]

286merc, if you could scan those pages/ check the manual when you get a chance and either post what you find out or shoot me an e-mail, I'd really appreciate it...

Thanks,

Tim

[HeX]

bttt

[286merc]

I have no idea how this will come out considering the file size constraints of HAMB.

[du$ty]

. ive got some specs...ill post after while...guess scanning them didnt work.sorry dusty

[286merc]

I can EMail that page at a higher resolution if your ISP will accept a large file.

[HeX]

Kartbreaker and 286merc, PLEASE e-mail them to me...

THANKS!

Tim

[du$ty]

hex...were you taken care of bro?

[286merc]

I just got back from a trip to the surgeon. Now they tell me they have to operate on Thursday, out in a rod, pin it etc fuckin BS.
I'll try to rescan and EMAil a bit later.