Volare/Aspen subframe specs & tech?? [Archive]

Fat Hack

03-30-2004, 10:56 AM

Not that I plan to suddenly slip a Volare sub under my 49 or anything, but it seems like the little Mopar subframe is gaining quite a following. It's something I'd like to know more about!

On the surface, it seems like a great swap...you gain disc brakes, compact torsion bar suspension, 'modern' steering, and it's ready to accept a small block Mopar V8 easily...seems hard to lose!

(I dig the little Mopar V8s and would gladly run one in any ride I build...so that makes this swap appeal to me way more than a Camaro/Nova clip swap would!)

Any drawbacks, pitfalls or things to be mindfull of?

Anyone got the specs handy...like what's the track width, how does the sub attatch, what does it weigh, etc?

Just wanna file this info away for future use...

(and if the frame on the Chevy goes south sooner than expected, I'd like to be ready with a cool upgrade already in my mind...like I say...I don't mind building a car I really dig several different ways!!)

ELpolacko

03-30-2004, 12:11 PM

In my honest opinion the popularity is waining not gaining. I have installed some fifty+ Volare' suspsensions in my carreer and every last one of them were in fifties Ford and Chevy pickups.

Now for my critical review:

Outdated and obsolete for conversion material. Two of the bushings on the torsion arms have been out of re-manufacture now for over 25 years. These are originaly vulcanized to the torsion arm where they attach to the frame. This particular configureation uses the working arm of the torsion bar as a strut rod, not unlike a Falcon, Mustang, Mustang II and several other Mopar types. When the said bushing fails your only choice is junkyard replacements.

Lackuster handling ability from the start. Very numb ride quality that most mistake for good ride. Very little can be done for improvement outside of good quality shocks and the heavy duty antisway bar. It is a myth that the Police or Station wagon torsion arms are heavier duty, all Volare' Diplomat Aspens, etc used the same arm regarless of engine.

Steering gears can be a major pain in the ass. Very large and overboosted and usually in the way of most Ford engine oil filter locations. Left side engine mounts get in the way of the steering gear also, Rube Goldberg comes to mind. You will need to offset the engine to the passenger side 1-2 inches to clear better. Manual steering gears are available in the stock aluminum style but are hard to find. Flaming River now makes a steel replacement. There have been Rack and pinion conversions done but at the loss of turning angle. Besides that kind of a conversion defeats the purpose of a "economy" front end.

The misnomer of an adjustable suspension. Just because it has adjusters on the torsions does not mean you can just crank the ride height you want. There is a very narrow range in which the Volare' suspension is designed to ride at to reduce the ammount of tire wear. At its extreems of ride hieght the camber angle changes dramaticaly as well as the toe change (read bump steer) but will never be felt through the overpowering steering gear. There is no fix for this other than not lowering it to the Nth degree.

Designed to carry about 2500 pounds on the front end of a 4000 pound car. Wears a 5 on 4.5" BC, 11" rotor with decent calipers. Large screw in ball joints on both ends of the forged spindles. Rear steer for you Ford guys, although the oil will drain out right on top of the crossmember. 61" wide at the hubs. Works best with frame rails 34" wide. Narrower frame rails will cause greif with steering gear clearance.

Energy Suspension makes a poly urethane control arm kit for the Volare' but DO NOT cover the torsion arm busings, there are four. Fatman Fab makes a pair of dropped spindles at $300.00+ a pair. A great choice if you do intend to do this and you want your car very low.

The upshot on all of this is these front ends are very plentifull and very cheap. If you cannot find one for FREE you aren't even looking.