simple wishbone question that i dont kno

[331caddy]

in the process of boxing my frame on my model A havent gotten to the front part yet... the bushing and bolt go through both sides of the frame am i correct?
thanks for any help

[Unkl Ian]

Stock wishbone,or split?
If split,are you using tie rod ends,or spherical rod ends?

[331caddy]

split+tie rods

[Levis Classic]

Most use some 1/4" or 3/8" plates welded to the outsides of your frame rails. Then the tie rds bolt into tie rod bungs welded into the plates. Here is a picture which you can see them not eh best but I can take a better one if needed.

[331caddy]

thanks alot.... i just needed to a picture of it in my head...building my first hot rod and part im lacking in in the suspension

[Tim]

well what if you dont want to have that all hanging down and want it threw the boxed frame? how do you set that up?

[331caddy]

haha you got me beat on that one... is there also a way to put it through the frame?

[Tman]

WHere the tie rods ends hit above/below/or on the frame depends on your suspension design/castor etc...............I designed mine to hit dead center in the frame like Tim mentioned. You simply weld a piece of thickwall DOM through the frame for Urethane rod ends or get a little fancy with a tapered/countersunk bung for traditional tie rod ends

[Unkl Ian]

Black is the stock frame
Yellow is your boxing plate.
Green is a steel tube large enough that you can get a socket inside to tighten the nut on the tierod.
Red is a custom washer welded on the framerail.Note the taper on the ID to match the tierod.
Unfortunately,you would not be able to run Cotter pins in the tierod ends with this setup.

[wideglide74]

If you don't have the Bishop/Tardell book yet, you should do yourself a favor and buy a copy. Not as applicable to your application as some but still a HUGE source of refrence photo's, how to's and alot of explanation of why it is done a particular way. I carry mine in my car/bag and often when I have a few minutes to kill I read it over and over...

[C9]

Unkl Ians method is one I've not seen, but it looks like a good way to go.

Here's a pic of a pair of 'crush' tubes.
They're the two 1" OD with 9/16" ID holes pieces standing upright next to the Yuban can.

A 1" hole - hole saws work fine - is drilled through both sides of the chassis.
Drill the chassis first with a pilot drill and a drill block.

A drill block is a good idea so that the holes are square to the chassis and line up both sides.
(If you're dealing with the swoopy 32 chassis and depending on where the radius rod sits you may want to drill from the inside so as to assure squareness and proper alignment of the crush tubes. Nothing quite like getting the crush tube cocked, not that I've ever done that.... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif)

Drill both the outer vertical of the chassis and the inner vertical boxing plate.
The crush tube is welded flush with the boxing plate on the inside and the outside sticks out 3/16 - 1/4" from the frame.
It's up and away from the frame so the radius rod bushing can sit on a thin stainless washer to aid in retention of the poly bushing and the moving radius rod will not damage the frames paint.

Make the crush tubes out of 1" OD cold rolled steel.

[C9]

Here's a pic of the radius rod on my 31 on 32 rails roadster.
Note that the bushing ring et al stands away from the chassis proper.

[C9]

Here's a pic of a drill block in case that's a new one on you.

This one a block of aluminum about an inch thick and 1 1/4" or so wide.
Size is not critical, but it needs to be small enough to get into some areas and thick enough to properly guide the drill.
Using a pilot drill with these assures a square hole.
Best used with a clamp, but freehand with small pilot drills work ok.

All you need to do to make one is drill the drill block with the proper size drill and then use that hole for the workpiece drilling.

You'll want to use these with taps as well.
They assure a straight start to the threading process which can be important in some areas and show good workmanship there and in not-so-critical areas.

Drill blocks/tapping blocks are especially useful when tapping the 1/8" thick frame or boxing plate for 8-32 or 10-32 machine screws.
Either size used for brake and fuel line hold-downs among other things.

[Tudor]

that is some nice stuff C9 - proper