Fuel gauge recommendations please...

[Deyomatic]

I need some opinions on what you guys would do.
In my 55 Fairlane, which was converted to 12v before I acquired the car, my fuel gauge quit working the other day. There is a common voltage regulator that runs the temp guage also. The temp gauge is pinned to the right and the fuel to the left. This leads me to believe that the regulator is causing the problems. I've owned the car for a year and a half, so I don't think the 12v conversion had anything to do with the failure.
My options...
1. Buy a new voltage regulator- $35, but then the gauge might fail down the road, and I don't even use the stock temp gauge anymore.
2. Buy a new aftermarket gauge (that will match my water temp and oil pressure gauges)- $25. But, will the stock fuel level sender (possibly 6v) be usable with the new 12v gauge? If not, a new sender looks like it is $50 for the whole assembly- float and all.

[MilesM]

If the fuel gauge is pinned to the left (empty) the wire to the sender must be shorted to ground. If you lift the sender wire off the gauge terminal and the gauge goes full you do not have a problem with the gauge and you should look at the sendor or the wiring.

[Deyomatic]

Miles, it stays on E no matter what happens at the sender. I'm thinking it is that regulator because the Temp gauge is also pinned, only in the opposite position.

It appears from the schematic, that the sender grounds through the fuel in the tank, via the float. If that makes sense. The manual also says that the only way to test the sender is to install a new gauge. So, it sounds like the only ways to test the gauge, involve all kinds of resistors and such OR using the temp gauge as a fuel gauge, but being that the temp gauge isn't working either, I'm guessing it is that regulator.

[porknbeaner]

Deyomayic,
You check the sender with an OHM Meter. You have to have it out of the tank, and move the float up and down, the OHM of resistance change when the float level changes.
Lots of times the float won't float anymore. If you gauge stays on empty that is as likely to be your problem as any of the above mentioned problems.
Now if your aftermarket doesn't have the same OHM values as the sender you're going to have to buy a sender anyway. IE Fords are different than GM, and Both are different than MOPAR and on and on. So when you go to an aftermarket gauge you should check and see what kind of sender they use.
Give you a hint, donot buy a VDO gauge. I've had pretty good luck with thier other gauges, but never had a VDO fuel gauge or tach that was acurate if it worked at all.
My '55 Ranch wagon was 12V from the factory, I thought ford went to 12 V in '55. Could be mistaken, it was positive ground still.

[MilesM]

Don't check at the sender. Check at the sender terminal on the gauge. This elliminates the wiring being grounded somewhere from front to back.

I have an Ohm meter if you need one.