Couple of quick wiring questions...

[Fat Hack]

Just to be 100% clear on my total re-wire, I was just wanting to verify a point or two.

First, do ya fuse the ignition on a standard GM electronic distributor? (In the past I've just run a 12v hot wire to HEI distributors and it worked fine). SHOULD there be a fuse in that wire, and if so, what rating?

Second, the 'exciter' wire on a standard GM internally regulated alternator can be run right to the "ignition" terminal on the back of the key switch (along with the wire to the coil), correct?

To hook up a "charge" light to a standard GM internally regulated alternator...does the white wire ground the light or send power to it when the alternator is NOT charging?

The headlight switch should trigger a relay to carry the heavier current to the lamps themselves, right? What is the recommended amp rating for the fuse to this relay?

I'm pretty sure on these points...but it's always nice to double-check with these things! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[36-3window]

#1 i have wired up the ignition without a fuse in the past,but now i have been using painless 12 circut panel and they have a 10 amp fuse for the ignition/coil

#2 i put the wire to excite the alternator on the accesory side of the switch,so there is no feedback of power to the coil when the ignition is switched off,prevents engine run on.....the only thing i put on the ignition terminal of the switch is the ignition

#3 the charge light is the wire that excites the alternator...there is switched 12 volts positive running to the alt. when the alternator is not charging,the internal voltage regulator is grounded(-),completeing the circut and causing the light to go on. when it starts charging,the is 12 volts positive(+) on both sides,so the light goes out

#4 depending how long the wires are for the headlights,you may not need a relay. i never use one. i use 14 gauge for the headlight wires. most headlights are fused with 15 amps. i do use a relay for the electric fan beacause most of them draw around 22-24 amps and that is too much for a switch

[cosmo]

Yes, you fuse the ignition. Sorry, but I'
m a little rusty on what amperage, but you can hook up an ammeter to get an idea, once you're ready for that. (I'm thinking 20 amp, though. 10 guage wire from the factory on this one.)

The 'charge' light is wired in line with the exciter wire to the alternator. This wire is 'hot' with the ignition 'on' only, not during 'acc'. This gives the proper resistance so the alternator does not feed back, which would mean you could not shut off the engine. DO NOT ask me how I know this http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Normally, on a GM vehicle, the headlight circuit (as opposed to the parking light circuit, they ARE separate) is wired with a fusible link off the starter. The idea of a relay at the front (near the lights) is a good one, which would allow you to use a much less heavy guage of wire from the switch. The size of fuse (circuit breaker HIGHLY recommended) would be determined by the headlights. When I was using aircraft landing lights, I used a 30 amp breaker.
BTW, as a point of detail, Mercedes uses one fuse per light, per beam: ie: there are four headlight fuses, one each for high beam, low beam, right and left lamp.
Hope this helps,
Cosmo

[choprods]

Also Hack- the wire running to the HEI should be a 10 Ga wire..........it can burn into otherwise........[yep I did that] http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif........and a fusible link could do [inline] there also.OH -RUN THE BELT LOOSE SO A http://www.jalopyjournal.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif2.8 WILL PULL IT!

[36-3window]

i forgot to mention , if you are using the conventional GM alternator (and not a one wire) there will be 3 wires on the alt. the main feed on the output lug , the exciter wire goes to the #1 position of the two male spades in that liitle opening on the side... then you need a jumper wire going from the output to the #2 postion. make sure you use insullated female connectors to prevent shorts! in case you can't read the little numbers , the #2 is the one farthest away from the output....#1 is the closer one.

[Hot Rod To Hell]

Hey Hack, Just wanted to let you know that with the Halogens in My Chevy II, I went through 2 "seasoned" headlight switches in 1 summer... I put in a standar 30A relay and have used the same "seasoned" switch for 2 years with no trouble, and the headlights are quite a bit brighter!